SINGAPORE — Behold the marketing claims that say collagen broth or the “beauty hot pot” will give a youthful glow to your face and prevent wrinkles or the loss of elasticity to your skin.
No matter how enticing it is, as a consumer, you need to know the science behind how it works, so that you understand what happens as you watch that translucent jelly-like collagen melt in the pot or swirl in your bubble tea.
Collagen-infused food items continue to flood the market here — from personalities putting their names behind collagen soup mixes to hawkers selling collagen porridge or food prepared in collagen gravy, and stores stocking collagen broth in frozen packs and even collagen "hot pot" instant noodles.
A nutritionist, dietician and dermatologist explained how collagen really works, what to look out for as buyers, and gave tips on what else you can do to improve your skincare.
What is collagen
Collagen is a type of protein that the human body produces naturally using amino acids from protein-rich or collagen-rich food such as bone broth, fish and meat.
It makes up 65 per cent of the total protein found in the body.
As the largest protein, collagen is a chain of more than 1,500 amino acids.
It is found in skin, hair, nails, tendons, cartilage and bones.
Collagen works with other substances to maintain skin elasticity, volume and moisture. It also helps make up proteins such as keratin that form skin, hair and nails.
Dr Edwin Lim, medical director of Edwin Lim Medical Aesthetic Clinic, said: “Additionally, collagen supports the function of fibroblasts, which promote continuous regeneration and repair of the skin.”
However, the rate at which the body produces collagen naturally starts decreasing when individuals reach their mid-20s and this accelerates over time.
Aside from the ageing factor, sun damage, smoking and alcohol and sugar consumption all decrease collagen production, leading to thinner and weaker skin.
Ms Jaclyn Reutens, clinical and sports dietitian with Aptima Nutrition & Sports Consultants, said that genetics, too, can influence the collagen synthesis rate, just as how they influence the amount of melanin (hair, eye and skin pigmentation) every person has.
Genetics also determine how much elastin and keratin the body produces.
Will collagen in food and drinks replenish what is lost?
The answer to this is: No, the collagen found in food and drinks will not help to increase collagen production.
The science is simply this: The human body cannot absorb collagen in its whole form to replenish the collagen lost.
The molecules are too big to directly enter the bloodstream or the skin.
When it enters the stomach, collagen gets broken down into peptides during digestion, which are short chains of amino acids.
Once it is broken down, there is no control over and no knowing how much of it is absorbed.
The body will deposit it where it is most needed, which may not be the skin but in muscles, bones, tendons or cartilages.
Singapore-accredited nutritionist Adlyn Farizah said that the amino acids can also be found in many other protein-rich foods, not only from collagen-infused foods.
In other words, your everyday food such as meat, poultry and seafood have just as much to offer in terms of protein intake to help your body make collagen.
And you are paying for soup or bubble tea that may be adding more sodium or sugar into your body.
Are collagen supplements worth taking?
As for collagen supplements, there are still no large-scale studies to prove they work.
Doctors Payal Patel and Maryanne Makredes Senna wrote in an article on Harvard Health Publishing’s website under the Harvard Medical School that no human studies have clearly proven that collagen taken orally will end up in the skin and hair.
What exists are some trials regarding the use of such supplements.
Most of the studies on the benefits of collagen supplements and skin health are small-scale trials done by companies that manufacture the collagen products themselves, Ms Adlyn the nutritionist said.
Ms Reutens the dietitian said that these supplements typically contain a hydrolysed form of collagen, which means that it has been broken down into smaller peptides to ensure more of it gets absorbed into the body.
There are keywords that consumers can look out for in the packaging's ingredients list to discern whether a collagen supplement is more likely to work as advertised, Ms Reutens added.
They include collagen peptides, marine collagen, and hydrolysed collagen on the packaging, rather than simply “collagen”.
Terms such as hydrolysed marine collagen peptides, in particular, are considered a superior form of collagen compared to bovine-sourced collagen or collagen derived from cows.
However, people allergic to fish and shellfish should not consume marine collagen.
Look out also for prolyl-hydroxyproline and hydroxyprolyl-glycine — two peptides that have undergone more research and been proven to improve elasticity, texture and wrinkles.
These supplements also usually contain ingredients such as vitamins A and C, zinc, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid that are equally beneficial to skin.
That said, individuals who suffer from kidney and liver problems should be mindful of their protein intake.
Ms Reutens also recommended steering clear of products with fillers such as iron oxide, mineral oil, and carrageenan.
Ultimately, more research is still needed to determine collagen’s actual impact in these results.
Another aspect that requires further research is the safety of consumption and the potential long-term effects.
One of the reasons for this is that the quality and sources of collagen supplements can vary significantly.
Dr Lim from the aesthetic clinic warned: “Some supplements may contain additives or contaminants that could pose health risks.”
Unlike medicine, supplements do not require approval and are not evaluated by the Health Sciences Authority in Singapore before they can be sold here. This may mean that the purity and content of such products vary.
Similarly, there are no guidelines from the Singapore Food Agency and the United States Food and Drug Administration for a food or drink product to be defined as containing collagen, Ms Reutens said.
Furthermore, there are no established upper safety limits of collagen, though some studies have suggested that the recommended amount to take for effectiveness is between 2.5g and 15g daily.
Consumers are therefore strongly encouraged to exercise due diligence when buying or taking collagen supplements.
How to stimulate collagen production
So without oral ingestion of collagen, you are better off sticking to the tried-and-tested methods of caring for your skin.
When choosing skincare products that help to stimulate collagen production, Dr Lim suggested picking those that contain ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C, which are more likely to yield visible results.
Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A, and promotes cell turnover as well as collagen synthesis. With consistent use, it can reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture.
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that works to protect the skin against environmental damage and support collagen formation.
Like any other skincare product, it is worth noting that their effectiveness can be influenced by factors such as one’s skin type, the product’s formula, and the concentration of active ingredients.
Dr Lim also said that there are a number of treatments that can directly stimulate collagen production in the dermis (middle layer of the skin).
One of them is high-intensity focused ultrasound, which uses ultrasound energy to heat the layers of the skin.
Others include the CO2 fractional laser and microneedling, both of which create controlled micro-injuries in the skin to trigger the body’s natural healing response, leading to a boost in collagen production. CO2 fractional laser is also taken up by people looking to heal acne scars.
Due to the direct nature of these treatments, they can provide more visible results compared to supplements and topical products, Dr Lim said. The results tend to last longer because they are able to target the deeper skin layers.
Food and lifestyle habits that promote collagen production
Although a decrease in natural collagen production rate is a natural part of ageing, there are still plenty of natural food items and lifestyle habits that can help to maintain skin health.
• Protein-rich food such as meat, poultry and seafood can help boost collagen levels and these food groups are rich in collagen themselves as well, especially in parts such as the bones, joints and skin, Ms Adlyn the nutritionist said
• For vegetarians, they can achieve the same effect with egg whites, dairy products, cabbage and legumes such as beans and peas
• For vegans, besides vegetables like cabbage and cucumbers and legumes, there are also soy products and beancurd. These foods are high in proline, which is one of the amino acids needed for collagen
production.
• Food types containing the following nutrients can also support collagen synthesis: Vitamins C and E, zinc and copper
• Vitamin C can be found in a variety of citrus fruits, bell peppers, and berries, while vitamin E is present in nuts, seeds and avocados
• Zinc can be found in meat, shellfish, eggs, and whole grains, and copper can come from nuts, shellfish and leafy greens
In terms of lifestyle habits:
• Minimising exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun and applying sunscreen regularly can go a long way towards maintaining one’s collagen production rate.
• UV rays contain free radicals that can damage the skin barrier and accelerate skin ageing as well
• Cigarette smoking and excessive alcohol not only degrade collagen, but also decrease the body’s production of it
• Making sure that your diet is low in sugar and refined carbohydrates (pastries, white rice, white bread) will help
• Excessive sugar intake can lead to a process called glycation, where sugar molecules bind to proteins such as collagen molecules and damage them
To go one step further in supporting skin health, consider other types of supplements beyond collagen-based ones, Ms Reutens suggested.
Omega-3 fatty acids have anti-inflammatory properties that can reduce skin damage and lower one’s risk of skin cancer, she added.
Biotin, a B vitamin, is beneficial for not only skin health, but hair and nails as well. You may also take a vitamin C supplement if you are not getting enough amounts from your diet.
Now that you are educated about collagen, the next thing to do is to inform those who are not as discerning.
As an informed consumer, you should have the mind to keep to common-sense health habits that will also help you make some savings: Pay less for the rich collagen hot pot, stop smoking cigarettes, reduce alcohol intake, and have a well-balanced diet.
For a well-balanced meal, Ms Adlyn the nutritionist recommended following the Health Promotion Board’s My Healthy Plate guide.
This would mean filling one’s plate with:
• Wholegrains (one quarter of the plate)
• Protein (one quarter of the plate)
• Fruits and vegetables (half of the plate)
If you must consume alcohol, keep to two drinks or fewer daily for men or one drink or fewer daily for women.
If you have any pressing concerns about your skin or hair conditions, talk to your doctor or a dermatologist for advice. — Today Online
