MILAN, Feb 24 ― Tod's took the idea of transfer ― from one designer to the next ― to the next level yesterday at Milan Fashion Week, staging its debut show under designer Matteo Tamburini in the city's atmospheric tram depot.
Surrounded by vintage marigold-painted trams bearing Tod's name for the occasion, Tamburini sent out a line of models in smart, luxurious and travel-ready looks, punctuated by oversized zippered leather totes and even garment bags.
The designer ― most recently head of ready-to-wear at Bottega Veneta ― is one of three newly appointed creative heads making their debut for Italian brands this week, joining Adrian Appiolaza at Moschino and Walter Chiapponi at Blumarine.
The Tod's ticket was one of the week's most awaited, helped in part by the brand's ambassador, Chinese singer and actor Xiao Zhan, for whom dozens of young women waited in the rain behind barricades to see.
“He's so handsome, do you think he's handsome too?” gushed one fan.
Back inside, Conde Nast's Anna Wintour, encased in a burgundy leather trench, was nearly trampled by a phalanx of cameras surrounding the star, dressed head to toe in a warm shade of taupe.
Under the warm yellow lights over the runway, guests were treated to heated cushions to beat the chill as they eyed long cuffed trousers in sophisticated greys, creamy leather blouses and belted jackets, and classic trenches with a roomy feel.
Of course, with Tod's roots in footwear, Tamburini had to take a stab at the brand's classic Gommino moccasin. Here, it got a modern, Muppet-like twist with the addition of exaggerated red leather fringe at the front that vibrated with every step.
The fringe made another appearance adorning the back of a sleeveless, burgundy hued leather dress. A turtleneck collar transformed in the back into long streamers of fringe, dangling back and forth over an exposed back.
Sophisticated and modern, the collection looked tailor-made for the kind of fashionista who would never be seen running for a train.
“All the marketing and styling team together” chose the appropriate venue, Diego Della Valle, Tod's Group CEO, told AFP after the show.
Earlier this month, Tod's announced it was going private under a deal with private equity fund L Catterton, which is backed by luxury conglomerate LVMH, with the Della Valle family continuing to be majority shareholders.
Irreverence
If Tod's represented languid luxury, the theme at Moschino's show Thursday night was “playfulness, irreverence, startling originality,” according to new designer Adrian Appiolaza.
The Argentine's debut caps a tumultuous period for Moschino, whose most recent creative head, Davide Renne, died in November just 10 days into the job.
Renne had been brought in to turn a page after the departure of Jeremy Scott, an American who raised the red-carpet profile of the brand by successfully infusing chic with camp for over a decade.
On Thursday, that left Appiolaza, formerly at Loewe, to rifle through the grab bag of pop fashion treasures left behind by founder Franco Moschino, who died in 1994.
Peace signs, question marks, happy faces ― they all made an appearance on the Moschino runway on classic looks that were “subverted and inverted,” according to the designer.
Such as a roomy trench coat, worn by the show's first model, who carried a large bag of groceries ― a nod to Karl Lagerfeld's infamous supermarket show for Chanel 10 years ago? ― and set the tongue-in-cheek tone.
Trompe l’oeil suspenders adorned a men's silk shirt, while an oversized beige ribbed sweater was combined with an asymmetrical red ruffled skirt over roomy grey slacks.
Hybrid Fedora/visors were high-brimmed in front but supported with a band in the back, while men's shirts were twisted into turbans, leaving cuffs and lapels exposed.
Neon yellow smiley faces adorned sweaters and tote bags and made cameo appearances covering models' nipples under sheer black bodices.
Oversized white polka dots lightly sewn onto black suits and dresses flapped as models sauntered down the runway, while PEACE in bold letters ran down the front of a black sweater dress, the “P” encircling the collar.
A black women's vest had garters attached, and a bright yellow fuzzy shawl had cosy gloves woven in at the ends.
As if one needed more proof of the brand's playfulness ― Appiolaza's French bulldog Nena accompanied him onto the catwalk for his bow. ― ETX Studio
