KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 7 — When it comes to creating clothes for his clients, fashion designer Peter Lum always considers the needs of his clients without compromising the wow factor.
Think a contemporary take on the traditional, multifunctional and multipurpose apparel that can be worn in different scenarios and comfort and flexibility in clothes that are easy to move in.
“It’s nothing like the thoughtless manufacturing of fast fashion,” said the 58-year-old fashion veteran.
“When you do individual designs, you have to think carefully about how to assemble and correct them.”
The plus point is that when you walk into a room, the chances of bumping into someone wearing the same outfit are very slim because it’s made to your specifications.
This Chinese New Year, Lum offers eight elegant and fun looks in his latest seasonal collection East 24 under eponymous label Styled by Peter Lum.
The collection features four dresses, with only one resembling a traditional cheongsam and the rest being sheath dresses with mandarin collar.
A ruby red satin Chinese collar blouse with red lattice sleeves, shell top worn with capelet and palazzo pants, romper and capelet combo as well as shell top with matching poof skirt make up the rest of the collection.
All are one-off pieces that can be modified and altered to your specifications.
With Chinese New Year and Valentine’s Day almost coinciding, Lum created the shell top with matching pouf skirt from an old-fashioned magnolia print that would be appropriate for both occasions.
“It’s a lovely old 1950s silhouette which is equally fine for visiting on Chinese New Year or a romantic date with your Valentine,” said Lum, who attended secondary school and later studied Graphic Design in Toronto, Canada.
Tuck the shell top in to look more like a fit and flare dress or wear the shell top with jeans, pants or another skirt.
The pouf skirt comes with a petticoat, which can be removed to look like a regular pleated skirt.
Another look combines a romper with a capelet which Lum said he designed for flexibility.
“In a cheongsam, a mum, for example, can’t bend down to pick up her kids so I gave women like that a romper which gives her flexibility but at the same time, it’s still fun and glamorous,” he said.
He said that the capelet can be taken off when it gets too warm and the romper can be used on its own, so it’s not pure Chinese New Year apparel, which is something he always strives for in his designs.
"In Shanghai and Hong Kong in the 1950s and 1960s, women would wear a cheongsam with a jacket or cape over it. I didn’t do that specific look but I wanted to incorporate that idea, a throwback to that time.”
Lum included the capelet in another look which combines the shell top with palazzo plants.
“In ancient China, women wore pants under their long tunic or dress, so I was inspired by that,” he said.
“The influences in my designs, although modified, are all from Chinese apparel history. I’ve taken a lot of inspiration from that, played with it, modernised it.”
In another look called Twilight Bloom, an embroidered sequined fine netting in capri blue is worn over a separate bias-cut slip.
“You don’t really have to have a gym bod to wear this, the inner slip isn’t darted so it’s not tight but at the same time, it skims over your curves.
"The outer slip is loose but not voluminous, I made it softer and looser so that a lady won’t feel like she has to keep it in and not be able to breathe out, I just want her to be comfortable and be able to move in."
The same concept is extended to a floral embroidered tulle cheongsam-inspired dress with bias satin slip. It has no defined waist but when you wear it, the bias slip drapes over your body and when you move, creates the illusion of a fitted dress without being confining.
Another look called the Cinnabar, features a scarlet red cotton elastane sateen sheath with a side cutout motif that gives you an instant waist.
Then there’s the deep ruby red bridal satin Mandarin collar blouse with adorable red lattice lace sleeves.
Last but not least, there’s a graphic print cotton twill sheath dress for those who prefer something modern and neutral.
Lum started his career as a fashion designer in the late 1980s after graduating from a dressmaking school in KL where he was under the tutelage of the late Andy Chiew, a renowned couture dressmaker who designed the first uniforms for Malaysia Airlines flight attendants.
“My beloved grandmother told me that if I want to design clothes, I must know how to draft, cut and sew up the garments,” said Lum, who added that his mother often wore cheongsams made by his grandmother.
“Andy imparted a lot of his knowledge to me. I am so grateful to have learned from him.”
In the 2000s, he started working as a stylist and writer for fashion magazines and newspapers before moving to TV as a stylist in charge of wardrobe, hair and makeup for shows like Malaysian Idol.
At the same time, he built a name for himself in public relations and has worked for countless big brands over the years.
In 2020, he returned to his first love of fashion and started his new label Styled by Peter Lum.
Last year, he made his comeback official by taking part in KL Fashion Week.
How does it feel like to be a designer again after 25 years?
“It feels like coming home. Getting the chance to create for clients is a dream in real life.”
He added that while big name designers would continue to offer traditional cheongsams, he aims to give women an alternative.
“I want to give women the chance to buy new clothes that address the season but not necessarily something straight out of The World of Suzy Wong either.
“I try to make women feel comfortable and confident wearing clothes, whether it’s in the fabric choice or fun accessory like a cape or side cutout motif that gives the illusion of a smaller waistline, all for her to enjoy the clothes.”
The East 24 collection by Styled by Peter Lum is available at Moda Fashion Gallery, Fahrenheit88, Bukit Bintang until February 15.
For custom-order enquiries, call 012 7300182.
