PARIS, June 18 — Light years away from the tech used to develop more sustainable materials, a fibre used in textiles for centuries, hemp, is gradually making a comeback in our wardrobes.
The fashion industry is increasingly interested in its strong potential as an environmentally-friendly alternative to other materials, as well as its numerous advantages.
One company keen to put this ‘forgotten fabric’ back on our bodies is French brand Le Slip Français, which has just unveiled its first hemp-based underwear alongside an engagement of support for the country’s hemp-producing industry.
Before adopting lab-grown ‘leather’ or fake ‘leather’ alternatives based on mushrooms and lionfish, eco-friendly materials currently being trialled, some players in the fashion industry are instead choosing traditional techniques and local production.
After promoting the return of linen, a traditional material that is naturally eco-friendly, brands and designers are now also turning to hemp, a fibre that was stigmatized and then forgotten in favour of cotton — and other synthetic materials — despite its many positive traits for both the skin and the environment. Today, Le Slip Français is one of the brands determined to revive the fibre, offering its first pair of boxer shorts made from a mixture of hemp and lyocell.
Durable and resistant
After being essentially absent from the clothing industry for several decades, relegated to the rank of old-fashioned fabric, hemp finally seems poised to get its revenge, like its distant cousin, linen.
Used in transportation, construction, and even in thermal renovation of buildings, hemp boasts a host of properties that make it a perfect fibre for fashion and could even be positioned as the material that will help enable an entire industry to lessen its significant impact on the planet.
Used for centuries by the textile industry, hemp represents a naturally sustainable alternative that shouldn’t be underestimated, due to its low water and chemical requirements — among other things.
According to France-based association LCB (Lin et Chanvre Bio or linen and organic hemp) association, the hemp crop is “not very sensitive to diseases and insects ... and does not require weeding,” and can boast of being drought resistant, while being fast growing. In other words, hemp cultivation doesn’t require pesticides, doesn’t require much watering, and grows very fast. Hard to beat that, and yet... the list goes on. Its fibers are also considered extremely durable, with hemp clothing lasting through the years without any issues.
The fabric of the future?
With heatwave episodes becoming more frequent around the world, hemp is proving to be a great option to turn to when dealing with extreme temperatures. It is a thermoregulatory fibre, meaning that it maintains warmth in winter and keeps the body cool in summer.
Added to that advantage is its ability to quickly absorb moisture, limiting perspiration and odors, and its antibacterial and antifungal properties. All qualities that should make the natural material an essential one of the present for meeting the environmental challenges faced by fashion players.
Le Slip Français didn’t wait long before developing a first collection in hemp alongside its linen, French wool and recycled cotton ranges. The result of a partnership with Eminence, the two pieces on offer — a boxer short and a polo shirt — have been designed from a mixture of hemp and lyocell, combining softness, comfort and resistance.
And the brand isn’t stopping there, as it also intends to promote this fibre, and support its development by increasing its cultivation area. For the launch of this range, it is launching an operation to collect donations for the Planète Chanvre group, based in France’s Seine-et-Marne area.
The objective is to enable farmers to invest in new industrial tools in order to increase production of hemp straw from 5,000 to 15,000 tonnes per year. — ETX Studio
