NEW YORK, Feb 19 ― After seeing through its darkest days, the pantsuit is rising from the ashes to take over the catwalks, red carpets and other major events around the world. While not so many months ago it was being hailed as a goner, this comeback is actually a good sign, symbolizing some semblance of a return to normal life (finally!).
Covid lockdowns inevitably meant that pantsuits began the pandemic in plastic covers at the back of the closet, packed away among the little black dresses and stilettos, also destined to be forgotten. And that was enough, it seems, to pronounce its sudden, and probably definitive, demise. Remember when we thought we'd never ― N.E.V.E.R ― wear such stuffy, formal and restrictive clothes again? It felt like a liberation. And we get it ... spending your life in sweatpants and pajamas suddenly seemed so much more appealing!
Outshone by sweatpants
Even Anna Wintour herself did, for a time ― probably one day at most ― abandon her long dresses and suits for a joggers-and-sweater ensemble that left everyone speechless. But after the shock, came the anguish, even the irritation, and then came the time of reluctant acceptance: “that's it ― it looks like we're going to see out our lives in sneakers and sweatpants.” Tragic. Practical, but tragic, let's face it. Showing up in sweatpants at the school gates, while hiking or maybe to get croissants on Sunday morning might be OK, but everywhere, always, for a whole lifetime?
Fortunately, the end of lockdowns and restrictions started gradually changing the game. The ugly fashion trend kicked things off, bringing back pieces like Crocs, bucket hats and bling jewellery, among other items once considered the depths of uncool. Is that really any better than a sweatsuit, you might ask? And you're not wrong, but the trend at least got us looking beyond the shelf of shapeless, comfortable homewear. Then, TV shows took over, influencing our wardrobes with more colourful, glamorous, and sometimes even completely unexpected pieces.
Finally, it was the jumpsuit that made the cut, marking the advent of workwear ― a trend that's likely to last throughout 2022. That said, along the way, the pantsuit and the skirt suit have nonetheless made some quite remarkable ― and not unwelcome ― incursions into fashion, seen in casual styles, in fluid and comfortable materials, and loose-fitting cuts. Now, navigating its way between face masks, balaclavas and corsets, the fashion sphere has started to breathe again.
The return of a timeless classic
The Fall-Winter 2022-2023 Men's Fashion Week ― where women were far from absent, by the way ― gave some indication of a potential return of the pantsuit, as we knew it before the pandemic, with several looks ranging from casual to sophisticated. Note also that the men's suit has clearly regained its catwalk rights, after being relegated to the background in light of the various Covid lockdowns.
But it's the recent New York Fashion Week, which has just ended, that has now definitely heralded the return of this womenswear essential. From Michael Kors to Christian Siriano through Son Jung Wan and Gabriela Hearst, the pantsuit was very much back. And while this timeless classic returned to catwalks, it was also a prominent presence on the front row ― spotted on Lori Harvey, Blake Lively, Stella Banderas and Beatrice Borromeo. Whether in Paris or New York, everything suggests that the suit ― be it with a skirt or pants ― still has a bright future ahead.
And the trend has been confirmed at some recent prestigious events. On the red carpet of the Goya Awards in February, Vinyet Escobar and Cate Blanchett stood out in pantsuits, as did Connie Nielsen, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Juliette Binoche and Laura Basuki at the last Berlinale, in various different styles. Meanwhile, in France, the pantsuit took center stage at the Victoires de la Musique awards ceremony, worn by the host Laury Thilleman, as well as artists Hoshi and Clara Luciani. ― ETX Studio
