PETALING JAYA, Oct 2 — The signboard at this place may herald Restaurant Yau Hau Fook but peek into it during the mornings and you will discover a side banner proclaiming that this is also the home of Suukee Coffee.
Named after the Hainanese word for “mate”, the drawcard at this quiet stall tucked away in PJ’s SS2 area is simple fare prepared by Teluk Intan native Simon Chong, 38.
Previously involved in business, he decided to venture into F&B last August to make ends meet. As a child, he had picked up his cooking skills when he was roped in to help his family’s 80-year-old coffee shop at Jalan Laksamana in Teluk Intan that was started by his grandfather.
What he brings to PJ is his hometown’s taste, like the mee rebus for RM7. As it’s not often served here, he decided to offer his own version to cater to homesick Northerners.
It’s based on his cousin’s recipe and unlike the more pungent-tasting versions served in Indian Muslim eateries, this Chinese-style mee rebus has a milder taste as it omits those spices like cumin.
It is a simple rendition — yellow egg noodles paired with a not too thick gravy that has a light flavour. The not overly starchy gravy is made with sweet potatoes, potatoes, peanuts, sambal paste and dried shrimps making it pleasant to eat. It’s topped with fritters, sliced boiled potatoes, bean curd slices, fried shallots, hard boiled egg, chopped chillies and Chinese celery.
Simon uses two types of fritters for the noodles; a crispy flour fritter known as chui pang and the softer fritter he calls cucur. The crunchy flour fritters with a filigree-like texture contain a touch of candlenut to give them a hint of fragrance.
For the cucur, he prefers to use less flour and it’s got prawns and bean sprouts. Dial up the spiciness to your liking by mixing in the dollop of sambal paste on the side.
Originally he offered a variation whereby sotong can be added but since prices shot up for that item, it’s now only available as and when he gets a cheaper supply.
You also have the classic breakfast staple of nasi lemak for RM4.50. This is accompanied with stir fried sliced French beans, crunchy peanuts and ikan bilis, hard boiled egg, cucumber and sambal.
Again it’s simple fare with a fluffy rice that does not have a strong coconut milk taste but a hint of lemongrass. If you prefer a more substantial meal to keep you satisfied throughout the day, order the chicken curry (RM5) on the side. Full of flavour, the chicken is tender with a generous amount of potatoes. You can also have the curry with bread.
The Hainan bread (RM3) may not be anything special, as it’s toasted in an electric oven but I totally enjoyed its crispy fine texture. Moreover it’s the thick fluffy type that is perfect to dip into my cup of coffee or their perfectly cooked half boiled eggs, since it won’t crumble so easily unlike those thinner toasts that have been halved. It’s slathered with a runny brown coloured kaya that requires at least 3 hours to double boil to its correct consistency.
When he shifted to this present place this July, Simon decided to add two new dishes; the curry laksa and dry curry noodles. Currently it’s available on Wednesdays and Fridays to Sundays.
Since everything is prepared by him only, it’s too much work for him to prepare it every day. Moreover, he noticed that usually there are fewer customers for Mondays and Tuesdays. Each bowl of rich-tasting curry laksa, topped with roast pork slices, is prepared by Simon himself.
Usually in Teluk Intan, it is served plain but Simon noticed that city dwellers prefer the addition of meat hence the choice of roast pork. You also have additions like blanched long beans and bean sprouts, fried tofu puffs and fresh mint leaves, with each bowl of noodles.
The dry curry noodles is a little unusual compared to the ones served here. Simon explains that he tosses the blanched noodles with what he calls, lat chiu yau or chilli oil. Technically not an oily sauce and it’s what we term as sambal since it resembles a thick spice paste that is cooked down till it is fragrant.
The final touch is a ladleful of his curry laksa broth to give it a creamy taste. Similar additions from his curry laksa like roast pork, long beans and bean sprouts are also available. In the future, Simon may offer the curry laksa and dry curry noodles on a daily basis.
Suukee Coffee
Restaurant Yau Hau Fook
No. 25, Jalan SS2/30, Petaling Jaya
Tel: 017-3670888
Open daily: 8am to 4pm (or until their food runs out)
