BATU CAVES, Oct 30 — Whether you call it pan mee, ban mian or mee hoon kueh, there’s no denying the firm, chewy grip the noodles have on the hearts and minds of many Malaysians.
You’ll find it in soup; dry, tossed in sauce; hand-torn; knife-cut; or thin and served with plenty of dry chilli, a Klang Valley favourite. But where does one find something truly different?
The answer is Batu Caves. Specifically, in Medan Selera Selayang Jaya, where Rong Shu Xia Noodle House has been around for just over 20 years, occupying three stalls and standing as the most popular option for food near the market.
Many of the neighbourhood’s residents come here for a meal, some for tong sui and a chat, while plenty of vendors from the market do the same.
The name of the game is ban mian, with eight varieties on offer, from the usual suspects (dry, soup) to more inventive options (Thai style, siong tong), but one stands high above the rest: luo ban mian (RM9.50).
As its name suggests, this is a cross between lor mee, the thick, starchy Hokkien classic mostly associated with Penang, and pan mee.
Much like regular lor mee, the “gravy” is thickened with cornstarch; unlike lor mee, it is not dark brown or heavily spiced, instead sporting a dirty blonde shade and a clean, savoury flavour.
It can be ordered with either thick or hand-torn noodles, but I think the latter is the clear choice.
The uneven, rustic shapes are perfect vessels for the slippery gravy, which is meant to be cut with black vinegar provided on every table.
The result is a savoury yet slightly tangy gloop that is equal parts hearty and comforting.
It wasn’t raining on the day of my visit, but the bowl made me feel so cosy I almost wished it was.
The rest of the typical accoutrements round out the dish, including crispy anchovies, minced pork, and shiitake mushrooms, as well as wood ear fungus for added texture.
If you’re anything like my first girlfriend — an absolute fiend for dry chilli pan mee, that is — the version here is more than decent.
It’s served only with the thin variety of noodle, which the proprietor, Mr Chong, says is optimal, and I agree.
Mix in the flakes of dried chilli, anchovies, and the poached egg for a fiery experience. The fishball and pork ball warrant a special mention; he is happy to share that he buys them fresh from Selayang Utama daily.
But they do make their sui kow (RM2) in-house, which are utterly bursting at the seams with minced pork, carrots, wood ear fungus and scallions.
Just like their noodles, all of which are made fresh from scratch, it is clear they have done their time, with decades of hard work and expertise that can’t be replicated, poured into every bite.
Rong Shu Xia Noodle House
57, Medan Selera Selayang Jaya,
Jalan SJ 5, Taman Selayang Jaya,
Batu Caves, Selangor.
Open Wednesday to Sunday, 7am-3pm
Tel: 012-915 1575
Facebook: Rong Shu Xia Noodle House
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and self-deprecating attempts at humour.
