KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 28 — What makes a place legendary? Is it its popularity? Or its longevity? Taste Legendary Nasi Lemak makes a strong case for both – even with the self-appointed moniker.
Among Chinese-run nasi lemak places, few are more storied. The business began in the 1950s as a stall in front of Sin Sze Si Ya Temple, the city’s oldest Taoist temple, built in 1883 by Yap Ah Loy.
It later moved into Chow Kit Market, becoming a household name for its unique combination of nasi lemak and Hakka-style zha yuk – pork belly that’s fried, then braised.
In 2018, it was featured on an episode of Jason’s Market Trails, the Chinese-language TV show hosted by popular food personality Jason Yeoh, better known as Axian.
The episode focused on the fresh-faced third-generation owner taking over the business his grandmother started and his father ran for decades.
In May 2024, they announced their relocation to Kepong on Facebook, following the imminent demolition of the food stalls in Chow Kit Market by KL City Hall.
In the post, the owner expressed his reluctance to leave – and shared the sentiment behind their name.
“Many people asked me why we are named Legendary Nasi Lemak. I want to say that legend does not refer to the nasi lemak, instead, it refers to my father, because he is my legend.”
In September, they reopened in Kepong Baru in a brand-new shop house, now air-conditioned and splashed with colourful branding – including a logo featuring his father, the legend himself.
Lines around the block followed immediately; I resolved to visit after things cooled down a bit.
There was no queue when we visited just before 11am, though we were riding our luck considering they close at noon – or earlier, if they sell out.
Despite the new surroundings, they’ve kept the offerings as focused as ever: zha yuk, chicken curry, pork rendang, and sambal sotong.
My father went all-out, ordering the trifecta of zha yuk, pork rendang, and sotong with his nasi lemak (RM17), plus a fried egg (RM2) on top of all that.
I wasn’t quite as ravenous, but I still wanted to pig out on the duo of zha yuk and pork rendang (RM13).
A common complaint I have about many “porky” nasi lemak places is that too often, the focus is simply on the fact that there is pork – while the actual foundation, the nasi lemak, is lacking.
That’s not the case here. The rice, while not particularly fragrant, is ethereally light and fluffy, with distinct grains that tumble off the spoon.
The sambal – where many “porky” places falter, either too sweet or bland and neutered – finds the right balance of sweet and savoury, with just enough spiciness to pull everything together.
The ikan bilis is suitably crispy and salty, but the surprise standout is the blanched kangkung.
Instead of a watery, stringy mess, it’s been squeezed of excess water and chopped into small, crunchy pieces – the only moisture coming from within the vegetable itself. A small detail, but one that makes a big difference.
As for the main event, the zha yuk was excellent. Because the pork is marinated and deep-fried before braising, it’s common to end up with hard, stringy lean meat or a clumpy, grainy gravy. You get neither here.
The thick hunks of fatty belly, with their trademark wrinkled surface, are soft and tender through the lean, while the fat melts in your mouth.
The sauce is dark but clear, with a deep earthiness from mushrooms that lingers on the palate.
Which poses a slight problem. For me, nasi lemak thrives when paired with something fragrant, aromatic or spice-forward – like rendang – rather than something built on savoury depth alone.
The pork rendang makes a far better companion, especially with its hint of acidity (possibly from asam) that punches far above its weight and holds its own against the rice.
Don’t get me wrong – the zha yuk here is a really, really good version. But so is the nasi lemak with the rendang and other lauk. In fact, I’d come here just to eat the nasi lemak without the zha yuk. It’s that good.
I’d encourage you to come here and try the nasi lemak on its merit – not just because they happen to serve Hakka zha yuk.
Yes, it’s an unusual combination, and they do an excellent rendition of it. But their business didn’t last 60-odd years just because they serve a porky nasi lemak.
They are a nasi lemak place first and foremost, before they are a zha yuk place – feeding the Chow Kit community for decades and becoming legendary for it.
The legend may refer to the father, but the business carries on in his memory – and does him proud.
Taste Legendary Nasi Lemak Chow Kit Market秋傑路（炸肉）椰漿飯
17, Jalan Ambong Kanan 1,
Kepong Baru, Kuala Lumpur
Open daily, 7am-12pm.
Closed on Monday.
Tel: 012-333 2334
Facebook: Taste Legendary Nasi Lemak
This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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