PETALING JAYA, Jan 12 — Zhang Kee Bak Kut Teh is located near the Taman Bahagia LRT station, just a stone’s throw from the popular banana leaf spot Acha Curry House - in the part of SS2 many forget is still part of SS2.
Open for a little over a year, it previously operated as a stall in the SS TWO Kopitiam just around the corner.
Yes, bak kut teh - both soup and dry - are the main attractions here, but they are only served from 10am onwards.
Instead, pan mee and pork noodles are on the menu for breakfast till 2.30 pm, when the restaurant closes after lunch.
They offer a few variations of pan mee, including a dry one, one with spicy soup, another with fish paste, and a dry chilli version.
On one visit, I opted for the classic pan mee with soup (RM9) and chose mee hoon kueh, or hand-torn noodles, for their satisfying texture.
The soup was light and mostly savoury, but it could use more anchovy.
Luckily, you can ask for extra (RM2). I did, and it was a significant improvement.
Texture was an aspect that really stood out.
The noodles were slick with just the right amount of chew, and the slices of fresh pork had a wonderfully snappy "just-cooked” doneness.
But the winner was the sambal - all sorts of tangy and punchy to jolt you awake in the morning.
The pork noodles were nothing to scoff at either, especially if you prefer a broth that is more savoury than sweet.
The broth’s savoury profile resulted in a lighter eating experience, even in my bowl with extra add-ons and an egg (RM15), as the absence of excessive sweetness kept the palate clean.
Again, the "just-done" slices of pork were a joy to munch on, far better than the rigid cardboard often served elsewhere - even at some of my favourite spots.
We returned on multiple occasions to sample the bak kut teh.
The soup version (RM20 per person) had all the identifying characteristics of typical Klang-style bak kut teh but with a more subtle, balanced touch.
The usual intensity of traditional herbs was mellowed out, delivering all the depth without any bitterness.
There was no heavy, overpowering presence of soy sauce or black garlic.
Yet, it didn’t hold back on the fat - this is a rich soup. Not sticky or greasy, but luscious on the palate.
You can’t really see it either; there isn’t a thick layer of oil sitting on the surface.
Instead, the fat globules have been evenly dispersed throughout the broth.
It creates a truly comforting eating experience, where you can down bowl after bowl of soup without needing to slow down.
It also meant we could order fattier cuts like belly without feeling overwhelmed.
Another thing that stood out across each visit: there was always someone ordering the dry bak kut teh (RM21 per person), which announced itself to the rest of the diners with its sound and smell.
The heady fumes and loud sizzling of the dry bak kut teh were impossible to ignore, so we decided to try it for ourselves.
The dish was more herbal than expected - most versions I’ve had lean heavily on salt, aided by lots of dried cuttlefish, for maximum flavour.
At Zhang Kee, the thick, reduced glaze leaned slightly sweet, with just enough dried cuttlefish to bring the savoury side to the fore.
The soft slices of pork belly were perfect vessels for this glaze, which simply begged to be eaten with lots and lots of rice.
Zhang Kee Bak Kut Teh
7, Jalan SS 2/1, SS 2,
Petaling Jaya,
Open: 8.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-9.30pm
(Wednesday to Monday)
Closed on Tuesdays
Tel: 013-225 8880
Facebook: Zhang Kee Bak Kut Teh
Instagram: @zhangkeebkt
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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*** Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.
