KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 10 – There is an old Cherokee story about how each of us has a White Wolf and a Black Wolf inside us.
One is full of light, joy and hope; the other is prideful, greedy and destructive. The question, “Which wolf wins?”, is – spoilers ahead – usually answered with “The one you feed.”
For those of us who spend our days wondering what we might eat next, this narrative might hew closer to how each of us has a Carnivore and a Herbivore inside. One craves meat, juicy and flavourful; the other greens, crisp and fresh.
The question, then, might well now be: “Which one do you feed?” My answer is always: “Why not both?”
I share this not-quite-parable for the rare moments when part of me wishes to devour a huge steak but my appetite isn’t quite there yet, perhaps due to a heavy meal prior. Do I give up the notion of meat and just grab a salad?
Fortunately I am reminded of my own advice: Why not both?
Why not enjoy a refreshing, crunchy salad... topped with some crispy roast pork? It’s the best of both worlds, really.
Which is how we find ourselves at Meat Attic, a casual dining restaurant at Faber Towers in Taman Desa. Given the first part of its name, you would be right if you guessed that animal protein forms a major part of the menu here.
The second part of its name might be a bit of misdirection, however: Meat Attic isn’t located in the “attic” of Faber Towers but on the ground floor.
Part of the restaurant extends outwards from the main building, ensuring the dining area is suffused with plenty of natural light.
The menu is quite extensive; we are tempted by the Crispy Pork Knuckle (which requires a 60-minute wait due to its cooking time) and Spanish Iberico Ribs (a 35-minute wait).
We decided to go for lighter courses and a shorter wait for our orders to arrive. Which turned out to be a good decision as the restaurant soon filled up for lunch.
To begin, we had the Wild Mushroom Soup. Edible forest fungi blended with cream, served hot with a drizzle of truffle oil and a sliver of toast. Flavourful and just enough to satisfy without being too cloying.
For some greens, we had the Thai Duck Salad with an additional topping of their signature Crispy Roast Pork. Poultry works better with pork than most might imagine, the brininess of the sliced smoked duck mirroring the crackly salt hit of the siu yoke.
And no, it doesn’t feel too heavy thanks to the generous portion of lettuce leaves and cherry tomatoes, dressed in peach sauce. Tangy and subtly sweet, a nice counterpart to the savoury meat.
At this point the restaurant is nearly at full capacity. Families make up a large part of the dining crowd at the restaurant so if you plan to visit in a big group, it might be best to call and make a reservation in advance.
Service is top-notch throughout, even when every table is occupied. Big smiles from servers who are kept busy with dishes coming from the kitchen like clockwork.
For our main course, we had the Pan-Fried Pancetta. The manager informed us that the pork belly is salt cured and hot-smoked in-house, which helps develop its rich savouriness while keeping the meat oh so tender.
We had a choice of sauerkraut, cornichons, garlic rice, coleslaw and other sides to go with our pancetta. We decided on the mashed potatoes, which had a rustic texture – a middle ground between creamy and chunky.
This was the highlight of our meal. We usually enjoy pancetta sliced thin and eaten raw as part of a charcuterie board, or sometimes as a substitute for guanciale, when none can be found, in carbonara pasta.
But lightly pan fried, the pancetta comes into its own as the star of the show: deeply savoury, marvellously meaty yet still light enough that we don’t feel too stuffed when we are done with our meal.
There will be future meals at Meat Attic, of course.
With an empty stomach (why else would anyone consider intermittent fasting?), we can make space for a platter of their homemade sausages (Nürnberger Bratwurst, Cumberland, Lamb Merguez and every Bavarian’s favourite Weißwurst), Porky Aglio Olio or Bacon Fried Rice.
And some vegetables too, I’m sure. Sauerkraut counts, no?
Remember, when asked “Which one do you feed?”, if the food is excellent, always answer, “Why not both?”
Meat Attic
G-OS-03, Ground Floor,
Faber Towers,
Jalan Desa Bahagia,
Taman Desa, KL
Open daily 11am-3pm, 5-10pm
Phone: 03-7972 3661
Web: https://www.meatattic.com/
IG: https://www.instagram.com/meatattic/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/meatattic/
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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