KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 3 – With the year end downpour, we have been feeling a tad chilly. Nothing better, really, than something soupy to warm us up and beat the rainy season blues.
Something soupy or perhaps porridge?
This is the star attraction at Ang Mo Kang Sekinchan Restaurant in Taman Bukit Segar, Cheras. Their Teochew style fish or seafood porridge, made with whatever is freshly caught and delivered directly from Sekinchan – hence the name.
When asked, the manager shared with us that Ang Mo Kang is another name for Sekinchan, a small town in north-west Selangor. Famed for its paddy fields, Sekinchan is also a major fishing village so it is also known for its fresh seafood.
Indeed there are many seafood restaurants in Sekinchan, a whole row of them facing the fishing jetties. Most of the villagers and fishermen are Teochew so this cuisine is predominantly identified with how locals prepare their seafood.
The draw at Ang Mo Kang, then, is for KL-ites to enjoy fresh Sekinchan seafood and Teochew style home cooking without making the two-hour, 100-kilometre drive to the fishing village itself.
Regulars can choose from a variety of fish for their Teochew Fish Porridge, from the more popular grouper and pomfret to threadfin and red snapper. Clams are also available for those who prefer a more mollusc-forward porridge.
If you can’t make up your mind, a conundrum we often face, then do as we usually do in such circumstances and go for a mix.
We went for a Teochew Mixed Seafood Porridge that included prawns and squid. For the mixed option, you can choose either grouper or pomfret for your fish component.
While each bowl is cooked to order, the wait isn’t long to ensure the seafood isn’t overcooked. Our morsels of grouper were utterly tender without being mushy, a sign that fresh rather than frozen seafood is used.
There isn’t the usual fishy smell, another sign of freshness. The prawns certainly stood out here, each still retaining a beautiful snap when we bite into the juicy sweet flesh.
The broth was light but flavourful, enriched by the assortment of seafood with only a few strands of julienned young ginger needed to balance it.
What a bowlful of comforting goodness!
If the seafood porridge served to nourish us, then the other dishes we chose were purely for pleasure. We had asked the manager for his recommendations and he suggested the Fried Chilli Shrimp and Fish Ball Soup.
To be quite honest, the Fried Chilli Shrimp didn’t look like much when the server placed the dish on our table. Perhaps the dimensions were unhelpful; a large platter and a scattering of stir fried shrimps on a couple pale leaves of lettuce.
Looks can be deceiving. Though the shrimps appeared diminutive in size (they have been stir fried after all) and far from fiery red in colour, they really packed a punch in terms of flavour and heat.
These are addictive, so good we mostly ate them on their own without needing the accompaniment of a spoonful of porridge.
As tempted as we were to order another round of the spicy Fried Chilli Shrimp, we were glad we didn’t because our order of Fish Ball Soup was quite filling.
These are available as bowls of five or 10 handmade fish balls. We went for the second option, so five bouncy fish balls each. Every bite had that desired “QQ” chew. More fish than filler, so we ate without guilt.
Other recommended dishes include the Fried Clam Beehoon, Ginger Duck Porridge and Fried Fish Cake, but we really didn’t have space for more. Maybe next time.
The space itself was clean and minimalist. Simply furnished. Besides the tables and chairs, there was nothing more in terms of décor beyond a row of posters showcasing the signature dishes.
Then again, when the food is this fresh and well prepared, you don’t really need fancy baubles and trimmings to draw customers into your shop. Word of mouth and consistent quality will keep regulars returning again and again. We certainly will come back.
Ang Mo Kang Sekinchan Restaurant 红毛港潮州鱼粥
9, Jalan Manis 6, Taman Bukit Segar, Cheras, KL
Open Mon-Sat 9:30am–3pm & 5–10pm; Sun 9:30am–10pm
Phone: 012-366 9928
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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