KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 22 – We have a soft spot in our hearts for diners and small restaurants that open above street level.
They feel like secret hideaways for those in the know; there are rarely any walk-ins when your very existence isn’t obvious to foot traffic.
So when we had a choice between fish congee and pork chops with noodles recently, when we were hankering for lunch options in Cheras, we opted for the latter due to its location on the first floor of a row of shophouses.
The shop is called SiJiaLou and they specialise in Hong Kong cha chaan teng style pepper pork chops as well as homemade noodles.
To be fair, the area – Taman Segar in Cheras – is a mature, well-established neighbourhood with plenty of hungry residents during lunchtime. In fact, when we climbed up the short flight of stairs and entered the shop, there were already several tables filled with families having their lunch.
The second thing that struck us, after this heartwarming scene, is how eclectic the shop’s décor was: lush, green plants and dried branches; framed mirrors and random prints. There was even a retro arcade video game console!
All-embracing ambience aside, we were here for the food. Famished, we were thankful that our order of Pepper Pork Chop with Homemade Noodles arrived swiftly, followed by a platter of Deep Fried Stuffed Tau Pok.
The noodles were indeed springy, despite us ordering the soup version. The broth itself had the distinctive taste of dried flounder fish powder, which brought us back to dingy diners in Hong Kong where the most basic fare was served.
Basic but what a blast (of umami)!
The pepper pork chop was thinner than expected, likely pounded before frying so the meat is tender rather than tough. A bit more work for the chef, but that beats using additional tenderisers.
The Deep Fried Stuffed Tau Pok looked dry but revealed morsels of juicy pork inside – no skimping on the stuffing here. Excellent.
While we paired our noodles with some homemade chilli oil, for the stuffed tofu pouches, our server recommended the decidedly less Asian condiments of Heinz chilli sauce and tomato ketchup.
Perhaps this isn’t very Chinese but it is sort of Asian, if your reference point is a cha chaan teng in Mongkok, where Western culinary influences abound. If we can have macaroni soup with ham, why not tangy-sweet ketchup with our tau pok?
Other snacks include deep fried oyster mushrooms and a clean-tasting bowl of wantan soup. For those who can’t get enough of the pork chops, SiJiaLou also serves these as Pork Chop Mantous and Pork Chop Burgers.
It might seem repetitive but it is a good way to feature your star ingredient in various guises. They even do a Pepper Pork Chop Egg Lava Rice, which is not unlike mun fan (egg gravy rice) with a serious protein boost!
The beverage menu is pretty limited for the time being. Beyond the usual chrysanthemum, barley and iced lemon tea, our best bet is the homemade Luo Han Guo. Nothing fancy but this mildly sweet herbal drink hit the spot on a sunny day.
Given how chewy and “QQ” the homemade noodles were, we ordered more of these. Instead of pork chop and soup, however, this time we opted for the Pork Patty with Dry Homemade Noodles.
This is sheer nostalgia in a bowl. Nowadays our palates can get a bit jaded with the abundance of options, from juicy, medium rare Wagyu beef patties in gourmet burgers or thick hambagu steaks at yoshoku (Japanese style Western) restaurants, doused liberally with demi-glace.
But a thinner yet no less succulent slab of minced pork seasoned to perfection?
This is the patty of our dreams and it doesn’t belong between two burger buns grilled on a plancha. It is made to be savoured atop handmade noodles cooked al dente and tossed simply in soy sauce and pork fat, garnished with nothing but sliced green onions and crunchy fried pork lard.
We need nothing more except perhaps another bowl of the same?
As we paid and got ready to leave, more customers came in, all of them families. That speaks to the comforting nature of the food here.
All in all, our meal was a simple but satisfying feast. Sure, the menu isn’t as varied as a chain Hong Kong style cha chaan teng but it’s the quality, not the quantity that matters.
SiJiaLou 斯嘉楼
24-1, Jalan Manis 3, Taman Segar, Cheras, KL
Open Mon-Fri (except Wed closed) 11am-3pm & 5-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 11am-9pm
Phone: 012-979 9291
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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