KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 20 — Smoked pork and noodles make for an odd pairing – at least to me.
In theory, it seems like it should work, but much like the 2021 Brooklyn Nets, who had a “superteam” on paper with Kevin Durant, James Harden, and Kyrie Irving, theory doesn’t always translate into success.
Yet, to survive in a neighbourhood as old and set in its ways as the flats around Jalan Gelang, Pudu, you must be doing something right.
It’s probably fair to say that Sun Fatt Kopitiam is often overshadowed by its bigger, more well-known neighbour in Kedai Kopi San Her.
It has more stalls, draws a bigger crowd, and the stall selling claypot yellow wine noodles is known to people beyond the area.
It’s easy to spot the first-timers; like me, they’ve taken the opportunity of a Saturday morning to venture beyond their bubble; unlike me, they seem to approach the shop filled with trepidation, double-checking their phones every four seconds.
Please, people. It’s a kopitiam in an older part of the city, not a cabin in the woods.
I’ve tried the yellow wine noodles in San Her and can’t say I’m a fan – too much ginger – but the thought of smoked pork on konlo lai fun (RM11) at Sun Fatt thoroughly piqued my interest.
Correctly identifying Sun Fatt wasn’t hard, as the lady running the shop was incredibly attentive, saw my probing face and correctly assumed I was looking for smoked pork noodles.
Alas, despite my self-reported lack of trepidation, she easily identified me as just another outsider, as green as the rest who stumble in.
Wing Kee Pork Noodles is the stall's name, though they also serve la la mee hoon, bitter gourd mee hoon, and luffa mee suah.
Naturally, I was curious about how smoked pork became a noodle topping, so I asked the man behind the counter.
He was diplomatic but reticent, clearly not keen on sharing too much. No sooner had I sat down than my order arrived – likely expedited so I’d stop asking so many pesky questions.
Lai fun came highly recommended by the grande dame of the establishment, though you can still opt for staples like yellow mee, mee hoon, or hor fun.
I took her advice, and I agree – the noodles, tossed in a simple dark sauce with crispy fried lard and shallots, are all about texture.
Slick and slightly chewy, they played off the dense, firm and fleshy slices of smoked pork beautifully.
The pork resembled a thinner rendition of Japanese chashu, but instead of grilled, charred notes, it offered a much deeper, more intense flavour.
The smoking process kept the leaner parts tender, while the fatty bits became literal smoke bombs, releasing bursts of trapped smoky flavour particles as they melted in your mouth.
Alongside the noodles came a very light, subtle bowl of cabbage soup. It was little more than hot cabbage-tinged water, but it served its purpose, offering a brief respite from the intensity of the pork and helping to wash it all down.
Sun Fatt is a little out of the way for most, but I think the trip is worth trying something different that isn’t pure novelty.
And if the noodles aren’t your thing? No problem. You can treat Sun Fatt like a deli and grab some sliced smoked pork to go – the lady in charge even mentioned she loves making sandwiches with it.
Wing Kee Pork Noodles, Sun Fatt Kopitiam
34, Jalan Gelang, Pudu, 55200 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 6.30am-2pm
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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