KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 12 — Mention Tanglin and locals immediately connect it with nasi lemak, the most famous dish served at the Tanglin Food Court nestled in the lush Perdana Botanical Gardens.
The food court has been a go-to spot for great food at affordable prices and a meeting point for many Malaysians since 2002, but the heavy foot traffic over the years have also worn it down and turned off some patrons due to the insufficient parking space, poor ventilation and other dated facilities.
Some were caught by surprise when it closed in April last year, fearing that it was the end of a beloved institution.
But a refreshed Tanglin reopened in May this year after undergoing a RM1.5 million overhaul under Lestari Niaga@Kuala Lumpur, a government initiative aimed at enhancing small traders’ facilities across the capital city.
And the Nasi Lemak Tanglin aficionados are back in hordes too.
“It’s especially busy from around 8am onwards until say 10am before picking up again around 12pm and since the renovations, we’ve seen even more customers,” Mira Faridah, who works at Nasi Lemak Tanglin stall, told Malay Mail during a recent visit.
“The exhaust fans are a huge improvement, keeping the smoke away from where people sit as in the past, the smoke would billow right into the customers’ faces,” Mira said.
“It’s more spacious now and the regulars, or even new customers, can rest assured they can find a spot to sit relatively quickly and not have to wait too long anymore,” she added.
The upside and downside of modernity
What has not changed, and in a good way, is the taste of the food and the speed at which it is served.
A plate of nasi lemak from the famous stall, served with a piece of fried chicken, some cucumber slices, peanuts, fried anchovies and a generous helping of their signature sweet, spicy and tangy sambal with a glass of Teh O Ais Limau accompanying it came up to RM12.
Store rental can be upwards of RM1,000, and Mira hopes for some relief as food prices have risen.
“Yeah, everything’s going up, so a break would be nice for everyone.
“It would be nice if they (the authorities) could help with that, especially since food prices and cost of goods and even living costs are getting more expensive,” she said.
According to Mira, the most popular dishes at Nasi Lemak Tanglin are squid, fried chicken, beef, and... oysters.
The refurbished space is cleaner and brighter, with a better layout for both traders and patrons.
The upgrades included better infrastructure, additional seats which means they can accommodate more than 200 diners at a go, seven new shop lots, and new ventilation systems to pull the thick smoke from popular stalls selling BBQ, like the ikan bakar, ensuring diners a more comfortable experience.
The toilets are larger too and cleaned at regular intervals, allowing patrons to enjoy their food without being distracted by the smell.
“The place really looked old before, but now it’s beautiful. Even the water damage from the rain has been fixed,” said Carmen, who runs a drinks stall with her husband Tony at Stall No 1.
“We used to get water leaking into the shop when it rained, and customers who came here would get drenched as there wasn’t sufficient shade or cover, especially when it pours. Not anymore,” she said.
Tony chimed in, “Bro, this place is so nice now, we should open it for wedding receptions!”
His playful comment speaks volumes about the transformation; the food court has been upgraded to a point where it could host more than just casual diners.
The couple declined to give their last name.
Another seller who wished to remain anonymous told Malay Mail that before the permanent structures and additional parking and tables were added, traders used to operate under tents, putting them up and bringing their own tables and stools for customers every morning and then taking them down in the afternoon again once their business was done for the day. It was a lot of work and caused wear and tear on the equipment.
Now they’ve moved these tents to the back of the food stalls.
If there was one grouse, it would be that parking is still a pain for both the people who work there and diners, despite the extra bays.
A place for all
Nazrul, a regular customer, reminisced about visiting Tanglin as a child.
“My dad used to take me here on his motorbike. We’d buy nasi lemak to go. It was much more chaotic back then, but now it feels organised, cleaner, and more welcoming,” he shared with Malay Mail.
“For me it’s the nostalgia but also the food is great, we obviously went for the nasi lemak, but the fried dishes like the mee kicap is pretty good as well, that’s one of the reasons this place is special for many in KL,” he added
For law enforcement agent Mohammad Hafiz Kadir, Tanglin offers more than just good food.
“It’s a convenient spot for people who have business nearby. Many government offices are close by, so people come here to grab a bite or rest between appointments.
“Since before, police officers have used Tanglin as their meeting spot if they came from abroad and if they needed a spot to chill before their appointments. We’d go ‘Yo, meet at Tanglin, ya?’ and everyone will come here either for a meal or to regroup. That’s why in my opinion this place gets its unique iconic status,” he said.
Over the years, Tanglin Food Court became more than just a place to eat. It evolved into a community hub, where families, friends, and colleagues meet to share a meal.
It sits conveniently close to important landmarks like the national police headquarters on Bukit Aman, the National Mosque and several government offices and schools, making it a favourite among civil servants and others who work or study nearby.
In spite of all the improvements, the soul of Tanglin remains unchanged; it is a place where all Malaysians, rich and poor, can sit shoulder to shoulder, enjoy a meal, share stories, and soak in a slice of Kuala Lumpur’s history.
