KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 11 — Older readers may remember when Lian Bee stood in a dark, grotty alley on Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock, dishing out plate after plate of charcoal-fueled Hokkien mee to hungry city dwellers willing to brave a gauntlet of cockroaches and rats.
Even older readers will recall that Lian Bee had occupied this alley since 1946, back when the main road was still known as Foch Avenue.
Now run by the third generation of the family, Lian Bee relocated in early 2020 to a brick-and-mortar spot just off Jalan Genting Kelang in Setapak, a far cry — and 20 minutes away — from its original city centre home.
Now a full-service restaurant, Lian Bee occupies a corner shop lot in a busy commercial area, bookended by the Jalan Genting Klang Wet Market on one side and high density condominiums on the other.
Cars and pedestrians swarm every little slip road and lane.
In the past, one had to navigate rugged terrain – broken slabs of concrete and pitch-black ditchwater – for a taste of this historic Hokkien mee.
Today, the challenge is a more common, albeit arguably more daunting, one: finding parking.
We arrived a little before noon on a Saturday.
In this mostly residential area, Lian Bee opens from 11am to 8.30pm, a stark contrast to its former nighttime operation.
Another aspect of the old Lian Bee that did not survive the journey out of the city is the charcoal, leaving me curious to see how the Hokkien mee would hold up without it.
The verdict? I don't miss it.
Both our orders of Hokkien mee and moonlight kuey teow (RM11.80 for a single portion) were smokier than teenagers hotboxing a car in the early 2000s.
The former consisted of thick yellow noodles, slices of pork, prawns and cabbage aggressively braised in a jet-black sauce of dark soy, dried sole fish powder and reduced over an infernal flame that trapped all that glorious smoke and char – without leaving any bitterness behind.
A single portion is generous for RM11, though the amount of crispy lard – an essential component – was disappointingly sparse.
The yuet gong hor or moonlight kuey teow, named for the single raw egg that resembles the moon at night, was a slicker, more slurp-worthy affair.
Egg yolk has a way of making anything feel more luxuriant; soaked into a bowl of rice, it lends a lush, creamy mouthfeel.
Here, it emulsified with the sauce between strands of hor fun, producing a rich, velvety texture that was an absolute joy to eat.
Cantonese mee hoon (RM11, single portion) or heong dai mai was a real triumph of texture.
Vermicelli is fried into a thin, crisp-like layer then doused in a thick eggy gravy, topped with slices of pork, prawns and some greens.
The result was a series of wedges of once brittle, now somewhat pliable mee hoon that went great with the pickled green chillies.
Made in-house, the fried dumplings (RM10 for 5 pieces) or sui kow were moreish snacks with fillings full of minced pork, wood ear fungus and carrots.
Much has changed since Lian Bee's move here four years ago, but the world has also transformed in the more than 70 years since the restaurant began – which will be celebrating its 80th anniversary in two years.
In an industry where new businesses seem to pop up and disappear every other year, maintaining a presence for eight decades with a single signature dish is no small achievement.
I’m glad they’ve found a new home beyond the alley and show no signs of slowing down, still dishing out the same great Hokkien mee.
Restoran Lian Bee（聯美福建麵）
32, Jalan Prima Setapak 1, off Jalan Genting Kelang, Kuala Lumpur
Open daily, 11am-8.30pm. Closed on Tuesdays.
Tel: 019-335 9203
Facebook: @RestoranLianBee
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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