A 40-year-old fish head curry spot that opens for only two hours a day: Peter Curry Fish Head in Setapak 

KUALA LUMPUR, Sept 8 — On Jalan Angsana, just off the busy thoroughfare of Jalan Genting Kelang, sits Peter Curry Fish Head.

The business is 40 years old and has been at this location for nearly 35 years, something the worn, washed-out sign proudly announces.

Look for the extremely faded sign. — Picture by Ethan Lau

This is first and foremost a lunch place, open from noon to 2pm on weekdays, with an extra hour on weekends, starting at 11am.

Updated business hours. Yes, they are only open for lunch (right). — Picture by Ethan Lau

We arrived at quarter to 11 on a Saturday morning, only to see four tables already seated — clearly, regulars who knew better than to show up on time.

There’s still 15 minutes before the restaurant opens, but regulars are already seated and ordering. — Picture by Ethan Lau

No prizes for guessing what everybody’s gathered here for today: fish head curry, a dish beloved by Malaysians far and wide.

A lady came to take our order, and by 10.58 am (I checked) the restaurant was full, and every table’s order had been taken.

There are only four other dishes on the menu: blanched vegetables, steamed or fried tofu and fried chicken wings (RM12).

The wings were decent — crispy on the outside and moist on the inside, but not particularly well-seasoned and offered only a passing hint of nam yu.

A small plate of fried chicken, which you should save to eat with your order of curry. — Picture by Ethan Lau

I recommend not finishing them before your bowl of curry arrives, as the combination of greasy, fried chicken and rich, flavourful curry is always a winner.

By 10 past, the din of chatting families and snacking children had fallen to an expectant hush.

Then the first bowls of fish head curry began making their way across the room, and the chatter started up again.

Peter’s fish head curry has a few key differences that sets it apart from most.

In addition to pieces of grouper fish head, okra and eggplant, you can add fresh prawns and/or squid. Prices are listed accordingly on the wall.

The price list. You do the math (left)  — Picture by Ethan Lau

However, the biggest difference lies in the curry itself.

While many versions lean towards spicier, tangier flavours, Peter’s takes the opposite approach.

Thick, rich and positively laden with coconut milk, most of the fiery heat has been mellowed out, resulting in a milder yet satisfying final product.

It trades glossy firetruck red for a matte bright orange finish, looking more comforting and satisfying than a spicy, sweaty affair.

The chunks of fish were meaty, each piece holding its own in the rich gravy.

As for the tofu pok, it bursts with curry, flooding your mouth with flavour the moment you bite into one.

The squid, while thoroughly cooked and firm, doesn’t contribute much flavour or absorb much from the curry — I might go with the prawns next time.

The actual fish head is usually the main protein in a fish head curry, but you can add some big pieces of squid or prawn to your order here. — Picture by Ethan Lau

While the heat has been tempered, there’s no lack of depth in flavour.

A complex base with plenty of aromatics like turmeric and ginger makes the curry a joy to eat with rice.

I suspect that those who enjoy a subtler curry will enjoy this plenty — it’s mellow on the heat and acidity, but rich and robust in flavour.

Peter Curry Fish Head

12, Jalan Angsana, Taman P Ramlee, Setapak, Kuala Lumpur

Open Wednesday to Sunday, 12-2pm. Open from 11am on weekends.

Tel: ?012-659 6842

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.