KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 30 — We have had ochazuke in Japanese restaurants and cafés alike, but the Salmon Ochazuke at Shan Mu in Taman Connaught, Cheras is a surprisingly delicate affair.
You might have seen this very simple Japanese dish before — the server brings a bowl or plate of cooked rice, typically covered with some light toppings, and pours green tea or dashi over it.
Basically it’s a tea rice soup; ocha means “green tea” while zuke refers to how the rice is “submerged” in the light broth of tea.
Shan Mu’s Salmon Ochazuke is a full meal in itself: the cooked rice is topped with poached salmon, bonito flakes, seaweed, a halved soft-boiled egg and ikura (cured salmon roe). Our server pours some Japanese sencha over it and you have a dish even folks who don’t love tea would appreciate.
It’s a dish that fits its surroundings as Shan Mu does have a strong East Asian ambience, from the understated entrance to the café, with bamboo blinds and green bamboo plants framing it, to the gently lit interior, a tasteful blend of concrete surfaces and handmade hardwood furniture.
This feels like a hideaway, a haven for one to escape the bustle of the city outside.
And if you enjoy coffee, then you’re in for a treat because Shan Mu takes their coffee menu very seriously.
Head barista Oscar Wong mans the coffee counter (a separate section from the open kitchen, which has a lovely display of the mise en place) together with his crew.
He suggested an Ethiopia Wate from One Half Coffee Roastery for my flat white. The resultant milk coffee had white floral notes and hints of citrus and stone fruits... which might sound strange unless you adore acidity as much as I do.
Wong was crowned the Farm to Cup Brewing Competition 2024 champion just last month so we made sure to try his pour-over coffee too. We chose the Ecuador Juan Velez Sidra #14 (again from One Half Roastery), a natural processed coffee which yielded a cup redolent of pineapple and hibiscus. Quite lovely.
Besides local coffee roasteries such as One Half and the PJ-based Toothless Coffee, Wong shared with us that they have a rotating roster of beans from international roasters too. Past luminaries include PROLOG (Copenhagen), Grand’Cru (Sydney), Momos (Busan) and Lowkey (Seoul).
Beyond Shan Mu’s coffee and their signature Salmon Ochazuke, what we return for time and again are their sourdough sandwiches. As with previous visits, we couldn’t help but order their Kaya Coffee Butter and Chicken Nanban sourdough sandwiches.
It’s a given that a café that is as committed to specialty coffee as Shan Mu would focus on espresso and pour-over coffees alike, but to use it in their food menu too?
Yet the use of espresso butter – with a hint of vanilla paste, I dare say – really gives the classic kaya butter toast a lovely, addictive twist. (The garnish of edible flowers aren’t necessary, but they are pretty.)
We also enjoyed Shan Mu’s take on Chicken Nanban: the perfectly fried chicken thighs, sweet and tangy nanban sauce, a generous mound of mixed greens, all encased between two slices of crisp sourdough bread.
As our conversation wore on, we started craving more bites. Here is where the snacking portion of the menu comes in handy. From the Fried Baby Potatoes, served with wasabi mayonnaise, to the Fried Salmon Belly with black pepper and Thai chilli sauce.
The latter feels like something a keen bodybuilder would enjoy, chockful of protein and healthy omega-3 fatty acids... but also deep-fried for some crunch and plenty of guilty pleasure.
To ease up on the sweet heat from the Thai chilli sauce (not to mention the piping hot, just fried salmon belly – be sure to blow gently on each piece before devouring it), we ordered another round of drinks, albeit chilled ones this time.
The Black Yuzu paired espresso with yuzu purée and lime, giving the drink a refreshing, citrusy taste without losing any of its potent kick. For a gentler shot of caffeine balanced with calming L-theanine, their Iced Matcha hit just the right spot.
Which is a good way of describing Shan Mu, really, possibly our favourite new café find of the year thus far. Definitely a secret sanctuary worth tracking down.* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
Shan Mu
28, Jalan Cerdik, Taman Connaught, Cheras, KL.
Open Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm (Mon closed)
Phone: 016-362 8266
IG: https://www.instagram.com/shanmu_cafe/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/p/Shan-mu-cafe-100087935125900/
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
Shan Mu
28, Jalan Cerdik, Taman Connaught, Cheras, KL.
Open Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm (Mon closed)
Phone: 016-362 8266
IG: https://www.instagram.com/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/p/
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
Shan Mu
28, Jalan Cerdik, Taman Connaught, Cheras, KL.
Open Tue-Sun, 10am-7pm (Mon closed)
Phone: 016-362 8266
IG: https://www.instagram.com/
FB: https://www.facebook.com/p/
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
