KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 28 — When it comes to dim sum, purists have many rules. Sometimes it's good to throw out that rule book and experience a whole new style of dim sum.
That's what you get at newly-opened Dim Sum & Me.
Here, the dim sum chef unleashes his creativity to convert those dainty bites into innovative pork-free ones without losing out in flavour.
Naysayers would say it's impossible but in Malaysia, so many places including luxury hotels are upping their game for that type of dim sum.
With experience harnessed from working in Tim Ho Wan, Grand Imperial and Kingdom Palace, this chef has cleverly worked his magic with this menu.
Like the radish cake, which is usually stir fried with bean sprouts and egg or pan fried, they offer a Deep Fried Radish Cake (RM17) here.
It's transformed into golden cubes, making it a fun way to enjoy the somewhat stodgy “cake” made with grated radish and flour.
Keeping true to that crisp texture, instead of a sauce, it is showered with deep fried garlic crumbs, making it a crunchy, moreish mouthful.
Even the classic Siu Mai (4 pieces for RM13.90) is not spared. Yes, it's crafted with chicken and prawns, and served steamed but how about throwing in hot oil to get a Fried Siu Mai (3 pieces for RM14.50)?
It takes on a new dimension. As your teeth bite into the crispy outer wrapper, you get a juicy mouthfeel of the filling that floods your heart with happiness.
There's also a wicked Salted Egg Fried Siu Mai (3 pieces for RM16.90), where deep fried siu mai is liberally coated with salted egg yolk sauce. You may sacrifice the crispy texture but in return, it's a lickworthy dish where you'll want to to mop up all of that savoury creaminess till the last drop.
There's also a host of quirky touches, like using sambal petai. Yes, you heard right.
It's inside their Crispy Yam Puff with Petai Sambal (3 pieces for RM15.50), hidden under those filigree golden threads. It works as they add slivers of the green bean, taming its stinkiness and giving it flavour. You can also find it in the steamed rice rolls.
Other unusual (and untested to my tongue) flavour combinations include pairing lotus leaf wrapped glutinous rice with rendang chicken, or chicken satay wrapped in gyoza drizzled with satay sauce.
Their expansive menu is a medley of old and new. Familiar favourites are left in their classic forms albeit the absence of pork. It's probably to please those who prefer traditional ways.
The Beef Xiao Long Bao (6 pieces for RM28.90) is very good. Each dumpling is plump and about to burst from the broth that one precariously picks them up with a spoon. The soup is meaty and satisfying, making you reach for more. If you don't eat beef, there's a chilli crab version, listed in their top choices.
Even their Australian Beef Balls (3 pieces for RM15.90) are excellent. The texture is chunky without any soapy aftertaste. And most importantly, it shines with dried tangerine peel fragrance. More please!
The Crystal Prawn & Chive (3 pieces for RM13.90) is their version of the Teochew fun gor. With slightly chewy skin, it's plump with chopped chives and prawns.
Crispy Prawn Cheong Fun is their riff of the famous dim sum dish served in a luxury hotel in KL. It's a decent, slightly chunkier version with eye-catching red coloured rice rolls that hide prawns wrapped in crispy threads. At RM16, it's a steal versus the luxurious price tag of RM52 at the other place, which delivers a more refined dish. Maybe that's why I see it at every table whenever I dine here.
Maybe because I visit during weekdays, it's been office workers dining here for lunch. The menu offers porridge, fried noodles and fried rice too, perfect for sharing with your office mates. The Stir Fried Beef Hor Fun (RM22) is a great choice, as the charred rice noodles are topped with tender beef slices.
Not everything works here though.
Strangely, the BBQ Chicken Siew Bao (3 pieces for RM11.50) failed to impress with a rather ho-hum filling that didn't taste savoury or sweet. One couldn't fault the texture of the bao though. It was fluffy and yes, it didn't stick to my teeth, the test of a good bao.
The baked sweet desserts also falter. It could be an operational issue since it was probably prepped ahead as it arrived almost immediately after I ordered.
This meant the HK Flaky Egg Tart (3 pieces for RM13.50) broke its promise to be flaky. Similarly, the Mini Polo Bun with Custard Filling (4 pieces for RM10) lacked that crusty top.
The saving grace was the Mango Sago (RM11.50), a chilled dessert that helped to wipe away all the dessert missteps with its refreshing mango flavours.
Dim Sum & Me, LG11 and LG12, Glo Damansara, 669, Jalan Damansara, Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily: 11am to 10pm. Tel:03-77333748.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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