KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 3 — Sticks of blanched cuttlefish and thick cubes of pork’s blood. Prawns and blood cockles. Puffs of tauhu pok and a spoonful of dark, heady curry paste. And the most important distinguisher, some might say: the pristine white coconut milk broth.
Yes, lunch today is Penang White Curry Mee.
We are at Green Lane Noodles in Taman Taynton View, Cheras. The shop’s name harkens to the iconic tree-lined thoroughfare in Penang so it’s an easy guess that we are having Penang food today.
There is no doubt that the main draw of Green Lane Noodles is their Penang White Curry Mee: every table orders at least one bowl; at some tables, that is what everyone orders.
Certainly the milky white broth is rich and sweet. To attain its full breadth of flavour though, one has to mix in the spoonful of dark curry paste. There is a jar of this paste on every table so customers can add more and adjust the spiciness to their own taste.
Beyond the heat, it is the aromatic dried shrimps that have been pounded with chillies to make this potent curry paste that stands out. For those who can handle their spice, an extra spoonful wouldn’t hurt; it might even dance like angels on your tongue.
Our friendly server — the owner’s son, possibly — asks us each in turn what type of noodles we would like.
Others might disagree — as well they should; for each to their own — but for us the right choice of noodles is always a mix of meehoon (rice vermicelli) and mee (yellow noodles).
The perfect slurp, honestly.
Given the weather is swelteringly hot, we eschewed our usual orders of hot kopi O and cham. Instead we ordered something we rarely encounter in kopitiams nowadays: Iced Pat Poh Cincau and Iced Fresh Milk Pat Poh Cincau.
Soy milk with grass jelly is, of course, a common coffee shop beverage but we don’t always see the latter paired with herbal tea. Add some fresh milk and it makes for both a refreshing and oddly creamy summer day cooler.
Another must-order is their classic Penang Prawn Mee. Even without the spoonful of red sambal sauce, the amber-hued broth tastes deeply flavourful. If it looks murky, just remember that it represents hours of slow simmering and globules of umami.
Prawns and bean sprouts. Slivers of lean pork and half a hard boiled egg. Some greens in the form of kangkung and added crunch from fried shallots. It is what you would expect from a decent bowl of Penang prawn mee.
There is something to be said for the shop’s clean and comfortable interior. Decent ventilation thanks to the ceiling fans. Sometimes we crave kopitiam fare without the crowds and smoky fumes; this hits the spot.
One last dish: the savoury and gravy-laden Penang Hokkien Char. Nothing crazy here but exactly what you would expect: yellow noodles, sliced pork and copious amounts of soy sauce. Might be more noteworthy had the cook been more generous with the nuggets of fried pork lard.
We were too full for more but a number of other tables had also ordered a platter of Penang style lor bak for sharing. There is even Duck Koay Teow Th’ng, something to try for our next visit.
For now we are simply glad we were in the neighbourhood and were attracted by the shop’s bright and clear signage. Sometimes the places you stumble upon offer the biggest surprises, delicious ones.
Green Lane Noodles
39, Jalan Dato Haji Harun, Taman Taynton View, Cheras, KL
Open daily (except Wed closed) 8am-4pm
Phone: 012-670 6873
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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