PETALING JAYA, Aug 2 — Pumbaa’s first opened in Damansara Jaya last October, selling non-halal nasi lemak and nasi kandar babi, the latter of which quickly landed the fledgling business in plenty of headlines.

The term nasi kandar babi initially drew the ire of the Malaysian Muslim Restaurant Owners Association (PRESMA), but they later relented, with PRESMA president Datuk Jawahar Ali Taib Khan accepting the explanation that “non-halal” is clearly stated on the stall, and the dish is sold in a non-halal eatery for non-Muslims.

The public’s reaction? Lines out the door. They formed as early as 8am, with food sometimes selling out by noon.

I was lucky enough to get a taste before the crowds descended upon Pumbaa’s, and I remember enjoying it so much that I was a bit peeved at having to contend with such a frenzy – in my own neighbourhood, no less.

This week, Pumbaa’s announced they are relocating to Double One Kopitiam in Taman Bukit Mayang Emas.

It was formerly known as Restoran Tropikiri and housed a brilliant koay teow th’ng and prawn mee stall.

Pumbaa’s is located in the inner left corner of the coffeeshop, just one stall away from the prawn mee and ‘koay teow th’ng’ stall. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Pumbaa’s is located in the inner left corner of the coffeeshop, just one stall away from the prawn mee and ‘koay teow th’ng’ stall. — Picture by Ethan Lau

Thankfully, the stall and many others remained after the change in ownership and are now joined by the tastiest warthog in the savannah, which opened for the first time today.

It was a little early in the morning for nasi kandar, even by my gluttonous standards. Luckily for me, the nasi lemak is my favourite thing to get here.

Hakuna Matata! It’s pretty clear that pork features all over the food at Pumbaa’s. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Hakuna Matata! It’s pretty clear that pork features all over the food at Pumbaa’s. — Picture by Ethan Lau

I opted for pork varuval and sambal kerang in mine, bringing my very crowded plate to RM20. The foundations were all there: fluffy rice with a very light fragrance of coconut, blanched kangkung, ikan bilis and kacang and a sambal that leans slightly sweet.

The varuval never fails to leave me as happy as a pig in mud. Soft, fatty cubes of pork belly cooked down into a rich, spicy mixture with a complex smorgasbord of spices and herbs. Imagine pairing this with a nice cold Carlsberg.

‘Pork varuval’ is made with soft, fatty cubes of belly that are a delicious spicy mixture. — Picture by Ethan Lau
‘Pork varuval’ is made with soft, fatty cubes of belly that are a delicious spicy mixture. — Picture by Ethan Lau

I could bore you by trying to identify each one, or I could simply tell you to come here and eat it yourself. There is, however, a distinctly tart undertone to the dish which deftly counters the rich and fatty pork, and is probably achieved with asam (tamarind).

Off the hog and onto the beach, the tender cockles were great in the spicy and slightly sweet sambal. The metallic taste that’s common in raw cockles – which I’m not a fan of – was cooked out and dealt with by the tasty sambal, so this was perfect for me.

‘Sambal kerang’  here is spicy and slightly sweet. — Picture by Ethan Lau
‘Sambal kerang’  here is spicy and slightly sweet. — Picture by Ethan Lau

Aside from nasi lemak and nasi kandar, Pumbaa’s also serves a few breakfast specials, including roti, thosai and murtabak – most involve pork, obviously.

The pork murtabak (RM12) is filled with minced pork, chilli, eggs and plenty of onions, and is also served with the typical accompaniment of pink pickled onions. This is on the lighter side for those looking for something less substantial, and the pickled onions give it a great lift.

The pork ‘murtabak’ is a good option for those wanting something less heavy. — Picture by Ethan Lau
The pork ‘murtabak’ is a good option for those wanting something less heavy. — Picture by Ethan Lau

Getting a little high on the hog here is usually an enjoyable experience for me, and even if Pumbaa’s is no longer in my neighbourhood, the newer, bigger space makes me less worried about dealing with any potential crowds.

Hakuna Matata, right?

Double One Kopitiam stands at the corner of the street, where Restoran Tropikiri used to be. — Picture by Ethan Lau
Double One Kopitiam stands at the corner of the street, where Restoran Tropikiri used to be. — Picture by Ethan Lau

Pumbaa’s Nasi Lemak & Nasi Kandar (Non-Halal) stall at Double One Kopitiam2, Jalan BM 1/2, Taman Bukit Mayang Emas, Petaling JayaOpen Monday to Saturday, 8am-5pm. Closed on Wednesday and Sunday.Tel: 012-535 2413

Instagram: @pumbaa_s_

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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