KUALA LUMPUR, July 31 — Sitting on the top floor of Lot 10's Isetan KL, Mitsumori is the latest addition to the clutch of Japanese restaurants at The Table.
One needs to walk past the cheesecake fans scrambling for a table in The Tokyo Restaurant to reach Mitsumori.
It's pure relief when you walk in, as it's a quiet oasis from all the din outside.
The main feature is the counter where Chef Mitsuhiro holds court. That's where all the tempura and even sashimi action happens.
Most of the clientele here are Japanese with a few locals like us, looking for superb handmade soba noodles and freshly-fried tempura.
Mitsumori's pedigree is impressive. It's brought in by Ootoya Holdings, well known in Japan for their hearty Japanese meals.
This foray in Malaysia marks its second international outlet after Bangkok which opened in 2011.
On Mitsumori Bangkok's website, we find out that Mitsumori is named after Hisami Mitsumori, the chairman of Ootoya Holdings.
When it comes to tempura, many of us are slowly appreciating that it's an art form rather than just something you chuck in hot oil for some crunchy goodness.
In recent years, tempura knowledge has gone up a few notches with the opening of Tenshin and Tenmasa, where it's elevated to fine dining status.
On the other side of the spectrum, there's also casual places like Sobakichi and Miyatake Sanuki Udon that offer tempura with handmade soba and udon.
Mitsumori sits in the middle of that spectrum: Not really fine dining but casual amidst elegant surroundings.
Not many places in the Klang Valley offer tempura omakase, hence Mitsumori has a niche with their tempura omakase that starts from RM250.
The most indulgent course is the RM450 one, where you get a special chef's dish rather than the usual choice of tendon or homemade soba.
The reservation-only omakase features various types of tempura fried in front of you and served immediately, sashimi, appetiser, seafood, vegetable and dessert. Like all Japanese eateries, the ingredients follow the season for the freshest items.
If you prefer to not jump straight into an omakase without a feel of whether you will enjoy their style of cooking, it's best to opt for the a la carte menu.
Lunch is a great choice as the offerings are slightly cheaper compared to dinner. However a compromise would be less choices like some of their signature items.
The menu extends beyond soba and tempura. There's also appetisers, rice bowls, sashimi, grilled fish and dessert.
A great way to just dive into their specialties is to just go for the Cold Soba with Tempura (RM63).
Other cold soba pairings include the duck and leek soup, grated yam, curry soup and a Mitsumori style soup. You can also enjoy the soba in hot soup or topped with spicy miso minced meat.
With the cold soba, it's the perfect test for the buckwheat noodles, handmade from Hokkaido sourced flour.
Here, the strands have a delicate bite with just the right firmness. It's a perfect match with the dipping sauce mixed with negi and wasabi.
The tempura is exceptional. Each piece is coated with a feather light batter that gives that a delicate crunch, the moment you bite into it.
While timing is slightly compromised since it's served in an assortment versus eating each piece fresh from the hot oil, the crunch was still impressive.
One could taste the natural sweetness of vegetables like the green bean and pumpkin. In that mix, you get to relish two prawns, shiitake mushroom, eggplant and Japanese yam.
Once you have slurped and crunched down all of those goodies, remember to ask for the sobayu or water cooked with the soba noodles, to mix with your dipping sauce to create a delicious broth to end the meal.
Tendon (RM49) is the other classic dish with tempura and this one was a good rendition with the plump rice grains lightly doused in a sauce that is savoury but not too sweet. One needs to eat this fast though as the batter for the tempura will wilt with time since it's touched by the sauce.
You get to see the chef's exceptional skills with the kakiage. I sampled the July seasonal special, with Chitose corn and edamame (RM29) instead of the usual menu version with vegetables and shrimps.
The layers were beautifully golden crispy but oh so light! This was enhanced further with the sweet-tasting corn niblets and pops of edamame, making the kakiage my must-order for any future visits here.
You know it's a winner when I am already planning the next visit to try out their a la carte tempura items or maybe, if the wallet permits, indulge in the tempura omakase.
Your must-eat list should also include their Homemade Fresh and Cold Tofu (RM19). It may not look like much but it's like eating soft custard.
There's soy sauce and bonito flakes served on the side for you to add as toppings. If you prefer a spicy kick, there's a spicy miso minced meat version too.
As they bring in the koji specially from Oimatsu Sendai Nagata Jozo, one must order the Grilled Chicken with Salted Rice Malt (RM29).
The grilled meat is juicy with a slightly firm texture and just a hint of the koji taste, which gives it an umami kick. Relish it with the creamy potato salad served on the side.
Mitsumori, The Table, Fourth Floor, Isetan KL, Lot 10, 50, Jalan Sultan Ismail, KL. Open: 11am to 11pm (Tuesday to Sunday). Closed on Monday. Facebook: @mitsumorikl Instagram: @mitsumorikl Website:@mitsumorikl This is a pork-free restaurant.
* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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