KUALA LUMPUR, July 6 — Blind dates and meet-cutes are no guarantee of both participants hitting it off. For every When Harry Met Sally, there must be dozens of others with no fireworks.
The same goes for recipes, really. Some of the best and simplest recipes only feature a few ingredients, or perhaps only two. Yet the chain reaction that happens produces true flavour bombs and a dish for the ages.
This sort of kitchen magic is on my mind as I make a classic Cantonese dessert for the umpteenth time. Known as geong zap zong naai in Cantonese, the name can be literally translated as “ginger juice collides with milk”.
What you get is basically very spicy ginger milk curd. Only two main ingredients are used — ginger and milk — with some sugar to balance the flavour. There is no binding agent, no gelatin or agar-agar.
Enzymes in the ginger juice work to curdle the casein proteins in the milk. The result is a delicate pudding, far wobblier than the more familiar tau foo fa.
Its fragility contrasts with the heat from the ginger beautifully. To gild the lily, you may add some dried red dates and goji berries as toppings. A drizzle of runny honey to finish.
Consider this a successful blind date, a delectable meet-cute. When Ginger Met Dairy, anyone?
Ginger Milk Curd
This traditional Cantonese recipe is pretty straightforward given there are only three ingredients — ginger, milk and sugar. One might argue that even sugar isn’t absolutely crucial and is merely meant to balance the spiciness of the ginger.
However, the simpler some recipes look, the more hidden pitfalls lie in wait. Let us address the most pertinent ones.
First, the ginger. The coagulation happens in part due to zingibain or ginger protease, a type of enzyme found in the rhizome.
Prolonged exposure to air tends to cause the enzyme to oxidise, a process known as enzymatic browning. Therefore, only peel and grate the ginger right before using.
Stirring the ginger juice before adding the warm milk also ensures the ginger enzymes and starches are evenly dispersed. The starches tend to settle at the bottom of the bowl, you see.
I prefer using old ginger — I find the taste is spicier — but young ginger should be fine too. Try both, if you like.
Secondly, the temperature of the milk matters. While heating it, I tend to use a kitchen thermometer to monitor the temperature. A range of 75-80°C appears to be the magic spot.
Once you have poured the milk into the bowl of ginger juice, refrain from disturbing it. I shook the bowl once during an early attempt and somehow this interrupted the coagulation process.
If it feels a tad bit fussy, let me assure you that once you have gotten the hang of it, it becomes second nature. Who wouldn’t want a quick-and-easy dessert recipe in their repertoire, especially one with so few ingredients?
Ingredients
5 tablespoons of fresh ginger juice
150 ml fresh full cream milk
1½ teaspoons granulated sugar
Toppings: dried red dates, goji berries and runny honey (optional)
Method
Remove the skin from the ginger using a vegetable peeler. Finely grate the ginger then transfer the grated ginger into a muslin cloth. Squeeze the juice into a bowl. You will need about 5 tablespoons of fresh ginger juice.
Pour the milk into a small pan or pot. Add the sugar and slowly heat, stirring gently to help the sugar dissolve. Using a kitchen thermometer, check the temperature of the milk. Once it reaches 75-80°C, remove the pan from the heat.
Before adding the hot milk, make sure to stir the ginger juice thoroughly with a spoon. Pour the milk into the bowl in one smooth motion, allowing the milk and ginger juice to mix quickly.
Set aside without disturbing the bowl. The ginger milk curd will set after 15 minutes. Serve warm, topped with dried red dates, goji berries and a drizzle of runny honey, if desired.
