PETALING JAYA, Oct 12 — Look out for the giant croissant in the balcony.
My friend offered me this helpful bit of information when he found out I would be visiting Contour, the new coffee roastery and bakery by three-time Malaysia Barista Champion Jason Loo.
For one thing, the address isn’t one I was intimately familiar with, which — as I find out later from Loo — is part of the appeal.
He explains, “I was searching for a change, for a place that is not in KL where I have been based for years with Yellow Brick Road and Wizards. PJ Old Town is just the sort of well established neighbourhood I was looking for.”
The right location is also critical given the surfeit of bakery-cafés in the Klang Valley nowadays; Loo wanted to serve a neighbourhood that isn’t already inundated by croissants and specialty coffee.
“Ideally I would love it if the local residents think of Contour when they think of pastries and coffee. We are a coffee roastery and a bakery. I noticed elsewhere the emphasis is on either the pastries or the coffee — I want to stand out for both.”
If it seems odd that the world-class competitive barista and veteran of our thriving Malaysian coffee industry is so focused on pain au chocolat and pistachio croissants, it might be helpful to learn that Loo got his start in pastry making, rather than coffee.
The 36-year-old shares, “I had studied baking and pastries were a particular passion of mine. But pastries weren’t such a big thing over a decade ago, so I got into coffee instead and the rest is history.”
One might argue that having his first love not panning out hasn’t hurt Loo, who was crowned Malaysia’s best barista in 2013, 2015 and 2017. But there is clearly a sense of coming full circle in finally accomplishing a long-held dream, if the gleam in his eye is anything to go by.
The vibe of Contour’s décor is old-school and nostalgic, blended seamlessly with modern touches.
One is greeted by an extensive display of baked treats when one first enters — from loaves of wholewheat sourdough bread to stacks of focaccia studded with olives and rosemary.
Naturally, given the current trend, it’s the viennoiseries that take centrestage here: almond croissants and blueberry danishes, pain suisse filled with vanilla pastry cream and chocolate chips, even a nod to the Land of Rising Sun with their daifuku red bean danishes.
Those looking for more savoury options can try pastries topped with roasted cherry tomatoes and q wedge of Brie cheese, or limited time selections such as the smashed avocado and half a jammy hard boiled egg — the very epitome of a brunch pastry.
Past that, there is the unmistakable barista bar with a Kees van der Westen Spirit Duette for all the espresso-based beverages a customer might want, and a trio of hoppers to grind beans — two for espresso and one for filter coffee.
Loo shares, “We are serving two different coffees for espresso: Brazil Pinhal on the first hopper and Ethiopia Hamasho on the second one. The first is a classic. It tastes like what coffee used to be, but better. For the other, I try not to go crazy with extreme acidity but still something easy for customers to enjoy.”
I opt for the Ethiopia Hamasho for my espresso, which is sweet, balanced and has a syrupy body. Just a light acidity, everything I would want from an espresso, which is a better gauge of a café’s calibre than a cappuccino or flat white in which the coffee is masked by milk.
All the beans are roasted in a dedicated roasting room at the rear of the shop. A stately Probat coffee roaster holds fort here.
Loo has been guided in his roasting by Wayne Liew of Crack Inc. Roastery in Sabah; both Liew and Contour manager David Chua are Loo’s partners in crime in this new endeavour.
“By roasting my own beans, I get to create the exact flavour profile that I like,” Loo says. “I first learned this first hand when I was coached by and working with the late Joey Mah, who would travel around the world inspecting beans at different coffee farms.”
The concept of Contour’s coffee is essentially an approachable cuppa, comfortable and easy to drink. Loo understands that the general public wants something strong, more intense and textured so he tries to help customers take baby steps in exploring coffee.
He says, “By having ‘interesting’ coffee that is too sour, they might react adversely, go back to blends and not try different coffees again. But if we get them used to what we serve, then we can slowly introduce them to more complex coffees. Else it’s too intimidating.”
This eagerness to put customers at ease is the reason behind the aforementioned giant croissant hanging from the balcony.
Loo explains, “While there is a story behind the name ‘Contour’, I don’t want residents nearby to scratch their heads wondering what we sell. The giant croissant basically tells them all they need to know.”
For those who are curious, “contour” refers to the geographic contouring that shows changes in elevation in a map. This could hint at the microclimates of mountainous areas where specialty coffee is farmed but also the laminated cross-section of a perfect croissant.
This back-and-forth between coffee and pastry isn’t a case of Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde but Loo’s heartfelt wish for his customers to enjoy both in equal measure, rather than either one being a second thought.
Judging by the number of customers with a bag of pastries in one hand and a takeaway cup of coffee in the other, Contour is well on its way to fulfilling its founder’s most fervent prayers.
I’m no different. I tuck into an umami-rich mushroom danish while sipping on a cup of filter coffee.
Loo had recommended the Costa Rica Labrador COE#1 Honey Processed Gesha. His current favourite, this is a clean, delicate brew with notes of jasmine and apricot, and a long lasting finish.
Other options for filter coffee include Ethiopia Chalbesa Washed, Ethiopia Chire Natural and Panama Abu Gesha GN1935. As always, beans will change with availability and the season.
Beyond the coffee and the viennoiseries, there is plenty to tempt those with a sweet tooth. Chocolate & almond praline cakes and fig cakes, blueberry almond pies, banana bread and butter scones, chocolate chip cookies and brookies (brownie cookies), apple crumble cheesecakes and Earl Grey burnt cheesecakes, and more.
It’s a veritable cornucopia.
Loo is especially delighted when he sees fresh faces at his shop, those from around the neighbourhood.
He says, “I always love to serve new people. What I am passionate about is guiding those who are new to coffee. And now I get to offer them my pastries too.”
Contour
55, Jalan 1/12, PJ Old Town, PJ
Open weekdays (except Tue closed) 8am-4pm & weekends 8am-6pm
IG: instagram.com/contour.pj/
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