PETALING JAYA, Sept 7 — The next time someone brings up a "hidden gem” of a restaurant, show this to them.
Lao Ma Zi isn’t found behind a secret door or above a nondescript sundry shop; instead, it is literally off the beaten track — a gravel path, no less — surrounded by plant nurseries and fish farms.
Nurseries and farms selling priceless koi, stone tiles and large flowers line both sides of the path, making this probably the last place one would expect to find a memorable meal, but a faded sign with the caricature of an old bespectacled woman accompanied by a rooster begs to differ.
Walking in, we’re greeted by the sight of the chicken in question - this absolutely monstrous specimen came up to my knees and could probably eat my dog (sorry, Fergie).
Juliet, the lovely proprietor here, later tells me that these are Brahma chickens from America, reared not for eating, but exclusively for children to look at.
Once we passed the Godzilla-like chicken out front, we found ourselves in the restaurant itself, ready to eat after that petrifying poultry encounter.
When I called ahead to make a reservation, I was instead directed to their reservation and ordering system on WhatsApp, which allows you to pre-order from the entire menu.
As a result, once we sat down, everything arrived promptly, the most exciting of which was the Smoked Platter (RM62).
Slices of smoked duck and pork belly are fanned out beautifully on either side of the plate, with the interesting inclusion of smoked lychees and braised peanuts straddling the two.
Carrying a considerable amount of fat, the pork belly quite literally melts in your mouth, with each molecule of oil coating your mouth in an intense, smoky flavour.
Less fat is involved in the duck, but the smoking process significantly boosts the savoury, gamey flavour of the duck, making for a phenomenal pairing with the lychees while retaining a toothsome, juicy texture.
This was hands down the most memorable dish of the night and made the entire meal worth seeking out.
Another standout was the Signature "Cin Cai” Steamed Fish (RM63), of which we had up to 10 different types of fish to choose from.
We went with pak sou gong, or catfish, and it came steamed whole, with plenty of ginger, chillies, Chinese wine and both fermented black and yellow beans.
The inclusion of fermented black and yellow beans gave the dish a significant lift in umami, bringing up the delicate, mild flavour of the catfish.
We rounded things off with the Salted Spice Brinjal (RM22) and Chinese chives, or qing long cai (RM20).
The former was a little batter-heavy and a tad underseasoned, but the latter was a masterclass in wok-frying technique.
Each sliver of vegetable retained its crunch, kissed by the roaring flame and heat of the wok.
It was dark by the time we left, making for a rare opportunity for a clear glance at the starry night sky.
Despite the unconventional location, I’m all but sure I’ll be back for more of that smoked platter.
As we left I learned from Juliet that Lao Ma Zi wasn’t always here: They used to be located along Jalan Ipoh until 2017, before moving to this nursery area in Tropicana in 2018 and finally settling in its current lot in the last two years.
Lao Ma Zi 佬妈子家乡小菜@Lot 10 Kawasan Landskap & Nursery Tropicana Selatan
Lot 10, Kawasan Landskap & Nursery Jalan Tropicana Selatan, Persiaran Tropicana, Tropicana, Petaling Jaya
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 12-3pm, 6-10pm
WhatsApp: 010-242 1132
Instagram: @lmz.tropicana
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
