KUALA LUMPUR, Aug 17 — There is a stretch on Old Klang Road where Chinese restaurants of all shapes and sizes can be found, from little hole-in-the-wall spots to sprawling, air-conditioned places with multiple floors.
It can become difficult to discern one restaurant from another, especially the latter kind where the canon of dishes served revolves around the same few classic dishes, save for a few variations here and there.
So what becomes the deciding factor?
For some, it’s produce, for others, it could be traditional recipes or cooking techniques.
Often many places that emphasise the quality of their produce are just upselling some expensive imported ingredients, which, while usually good, are... just a little dull to me.
At FENIX Restaurant, the spotlight shines on local produce, including everything from meat, vegetables and freshwater seafood.
An outpost of the famous Loong Kee Restaurant in Gohtong Jaya, much of the produce is sourced from Bukit Tinggi, Pahang and brought directly to the restaurant every day.
Freshwater fish and river prawns form the focal point of a meal here, and they are prepared in ways that best capture their inherent flavour, much to my delight.
Steamed Wild Patin in Traditional Style (RM29.80 per 100 grams) is quite possibly the best way to eat steamed fish, bar none.
Just barely steamed through to retain its characteristically supple and delicate flesh, a concoction of seasoned soy sauce is served on the side, allowing you to ladle it over the fish as it’s kept warm by a twinkling flame beneath.
Why, you ask?
As you spoon that salty, savoury flavour potion over the behemoth of a fish, some, deep primal part of your brain will immediately recognise the unmistakable scent of animal fat being released — that of the patin — as its luscious natural oils mix and mingle with the sauce.
It makes all the difference, and the best part has to be a bite of the bouncy, quivering belly, where fat, skin and sauce come together to leave an utterly luxurious sensation in the mouth.
Steamed River Prawns with Chinese Wine and Egg White (RM15.80 per 100 grams) is another deceptively simple preparation where the intrinsic flavour of the produce is allowed to shine.
The firm flesh slides right off the shell of these massive prawns, a testament to its quality, and the sugar from the Chinese wine massively amps up the already slightly sweet flavour of the crustacean.
The steamed egg white, now custard-like in appearance, is fully imbued with the intense flavour from the prawn roe as well.
I’ve talked at length about allowing the produce to shine here, but how about an off-menu gem that features little more than the humble egg?
Fried Egg with Chinese Yellow Wine (RM38) is an odd-looking dish, resembling an omelette that’s been unceremoniously dunked in a piping hot broth of ginger and yellow wine.
Fumes from the wine and a shedload of ginger will render any sinus issues void, but the taste of the actual egg and broth is actually incredibly sweet, with a hearty warmth provided by the ginger.
A real treat when eaten over rice.
Two more must-haves, both listed as sourced from Bukit Tinggi: Crispy Pork Belly (RM28) and Wat Tan Tian Qi Leaves (RM18).
The first is a dish that sells itself: Paper-thin slices of pork belly that are brittle to the bite, covered in a small amount of a sweet, thick and sticky sauce. What’s not to like with that combination?
The second is a textural journey that is perhaps more viscous than most are accustomed to: Tian Qi leaves have a naturally slippery texture that can be off-putting when stir-fried, but instead, it works like a charm when cooked in a smooth and almost gooey egg-drop-like sauce as it is here.
FENIX Restaurant currently has the best steamed patin I’ve ever tasted, and the rest of the dishes are right up there too.
The relaxed setting and easy parking makes multiple return visits all the more appealing.
FENIX Restaurant
5, Jalan 1a/114, Off Old Klang Road, Kuala Lumpur.
Open Wednesday to Monday, 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-11pm
Tel: 017-301 7399
https://www.facebook.com/Fenix79724771/
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