JOHOR BARU, Nov 29 — How wet and gloomy it can be! Yet even amid the daily downpours, there are pockets of sun. Or, if not actual warm rays of light, then humidity from the heat and the rain.
This oppressive weather calls for the right salve at the right time: a hot bowl of noodle soup or a steaming mug of teh tarik when it is pelting down; an icy treat during the sweltering spells in between.
It is the latter that we are seeking after the early afternoon showers have ceased. Here along the main drift that is Johor Bahru’s Jalan Tebrau, there is no shortage of options. We do as locals do and head to the nearest bank.
No, we are not looking to do a spot of withdrawal at the ATM. Just as convenience stores are the de facto hubs for supper options such as burgers and roti John at night, our financial establishments inadvertently play a similar role during daytime for food vendors plying their wares to the breakfast and teatime crowds.
We soon find what we are looking for: a colourful food truck parked in front of Maybank Jalan Tebrau. With a name like Cendol King! (exclamation included in the signage) emblazoned with a flourish, there can be no doubt as to what the vendors are offering.
Old-school ais kacang or cendol — shaved ice topped with red beans, ribbons of short pandan noodles and fragrant gula Melaka syrup. It is the quintessential chilled dessert for unbearable, muggy weather in Malaysia.
We grab a table right at the edge of the walkway, next to another stall that is selling crispy apam balik full of creamed corn and crunchy peanuts. There are the usual packets of nasi lemak already waiting on our table. But it is the sweet stuff that we are craving.
A weather-worn plastic table placed on the rear of the truck displays a few savoury options — more packets of nasi lemak, fried noodles, popiah goreng (fried spring rolls) and even some macaroni in tomato sauce. The spirit of entrepreneurship is strong here.
While waiting to order, we observe how disposable plastic cups are used for the takeaway ais kacang, rather than plastic bags tied with a raffia string. Easier to sip and slurp on the go, we reckon.
It is still early in the afternoon but the huge vat of cendol is already down to its last quarter. The weather can be a bane for motorists stuck in traffic jams but for purveyors of chilled beverages and desserts, it is a boon.
The whirr of the ice shaving machine — the old fashioned type to shave ice to the requisite fineness — continues unabated. It is music to our ears and whets our appetites.
We need not wait long before our orders arrive. One bowl of the Cendol Original and one of the Cendol Special. Dig in swiftly before the heat melts all the ice!
The Cendol Original reminds me of the ais kacang I used to enjoy growing up in Melaka. After school, my friends and I would make a beeline for the cendol stall opposite the iconic clock tower (part of the historical Stadhuys, all those red buildings in the town centre).
The composition of this bowl is eerily similar to the one in my hometown — just a ball of shaved ice that collapses almost immediately, simply from the journey between the truck and our table; red beans that are more mashed in texture than actual whole beans, paste-like and melt-in-the-mouth; the vividly green pandan "worms” that are boiled long enough to attain that limpid softness; a drizzle of gula Melaka syrup that could have been a touch more generous, and a hint of salt that seals the deal.
That is it, really: the exact ratio of saltiness to sweet that my palate is astonished by; it is as though I am transported 200 kilometres from JB to Melaka. It is surprises like this that make travel so rewarding.
Who would have expected a stroll down memory lane miles away from home?
Those looking for a bit more substance will appreciate the Cendol Special which comes with extra toppings such as roasted peanuts and creamed corn niblets. Other add-ons include pulut (glutinous rice) and even a big scoop of ice cream for their ABC Special.
Some mindful slurping and sipping later and we are done with our bowls. We say our thanks and wave goodbye to the vendors who are already wiping down tables for the next wave of customers seeking their icy, late afternoon timeout.
Cendol King!
Jalan Meranti Merah, Taman Melodies, Johor Bahru (located in front of Maybank Jalan Tebrau).
Open daily 10am-6pm.
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