NEW YORK, Feb 12 — In tough economic times, people can be nostalgic, optimistic or somewhat more prosaic. These three states of mind can be expressed through fashion aesthetics at opposite ends of the spectrum. After Barbiecore and its candy pink wave, then a comeback of the ‘90s and 2000s, it’s time for recession core, a minimalist wardrobe influenced by the current global crises.

What’s happening to the fashion world? Times of crisis, whatever they may be, are most often the source of extravagant fashion inspirations, or trends sometimes influenced by past decades, as a means of escaping to a less gloomy world. But 2023 could be an exception, with a rise in minimalism, and a more modest take on fashion dominated by neutral colours, zero embellishments and classic cuts. It’s a trend that originated on the red carpets — no joke — and which could take root in our closets. Welcome to the age of recession core.

Out with extravagance

The Golden Globes and Grammy Awards ceremonies largely contributed to the emergence of this new fashion aesthetic. As often in recent months, it was TikTokers who were first on the case, pointing out the absence — or almost — of luxurious jewellery on these two red carpets. Jessica Chastain, Michelle Williams, Margot Robbie and even Selena Gomez have recently walked the red carpet with no sign of the usual sumptuous necklaces adorned with emeralds or diamonds. A minor detail for some, but one that spoke volumes to users of the Chinese social network. They saw it as a sign of minimalism, and especially of a ‘modest’ aesthetic in tune with the economic downturn... even if the celebrities in question stepped out in Versace, Prada or Dior outfits. And thus recession core was born.

The day after the Golden Globes, TikTok user @ufodelaney posted a video decrypting this new aesthetic, poised to go viral. The TikToker begins by questioning the absence of jewellery on red carpets, revealing a photo of Katie Holmes, without a necklace, wearing a simple bustier, jeans and sneakers for iHeartRadio’s Jingle Ball 2022 concert in December. She goes on to remind viewers, referencing a scene from the movie "The Devil Wears Prada,” that everything in fashion is connected. The proof is in the minimalist fashion that followed the major recession of 2008, she explains. So the current trend is apparently a return to this pared-down aesthetic, far removed from any frivolity, as seen in the late 2000s (yep, the 2000s again).

Classic, long-lasting, high quality

The video soon became a hit on the social network (with more than a million views), and the trend soon went viral. The #recessioncore hashtag scored no less than three million views in just a few days. Beyond the emergence, and even the proliferation, of classic pieces, such as jeans, sweatshirts and T-shirts, note that skirts have gained a few inches since the beginning of the year — as recently seen on the catwalks — rolling back from the micro versions seen in 2021 and 2022. And the same goes for colours, with the men’s catwalks filled with neutral shades ranging from white to black through grey and beige. And that’s without mentioning the return of materials associated with simplicity and durability, such as wool, linen, hemp or cashmere. So many points that all seem to converge in the realm of the recession core aesthetic.

But is the economic crisis really behind this trend? Reining in a budget badly hammered by inflation inevitably leads shoppers to favour quality over quantity, or timeless pieces that will stand the test of time — and be easier to resell. But this shift can also be seen as a way to address the climate emergency, with a minimalism intended to counter the fleeting and addictive nature of ultra fast-fashion. Likewise, this less frivolous approach could be linked to a prevailing mood of laziness, a desire to refocus on the basics, and no longer succumb to the frantic and time-consuming shopping sessions required to keep pace with trends, explained Vincent Grégoire, trend forecaster at Nelly Rodi, earlier this year. In short, recession core could be the result of not one, but several intersecting crises.

But more optimistic fashion fans need not despair, since every fashion trend has its polar opposite, as shown by the recent craze for dressing like the stars of the romantic comedies of the 2000s — dubbed ‘rom-com core‘ — and the continual appeal of the girly outfits worn by Barbie and in TV shows. — ETX Studio