LONDON, Sept 21 ― Shaken by the death of Queen Elizabeth II, London Fashion Week saw upheaval to its schedule with the removal of all shows from September 19, the day of the sovereign's funeral. This did not stop many designers from adding last-minute details to their shows to pay tribute to the monarch, who reigned over the United Kingdom for more than seven decades.

A rare enough event to be newsworthy, the British Fashion Council (BFC) suggested not staging any shows on the day of the Queen's funeral, and to cancel the evening events scheduled during London Fashion Week, which opened in the midst of the UK's national period of mourning. It proved a tough blow for British design, for which this fashion week seemed like a new beginning after two years of pandemic disruption. Some designers cancelled or postponed their spring-summer 2023 presentations, like Burberry or Raf Simons, out of respect for the Queen. Meanwhile, those who preferred to reschedule or maintain their shows didn't hesitate to pay tribute to the sovereign.

The shows must go on

From subtle details to vibrant tributes and emotional segments, Elizabeth II was certainly in everyone's hearts and minds during London Fashion Week. Even before the week's shows kicked off, many designers and fashion houses had been paying tribute to the Queen with poignant messages on social networks. It therefore seemed evident that these expressions of affection and respect would continue on the catwalk. In all, it was an emotional week that will remain forever in fashion's collective memory.

The JW Anderson label, founded by Jonathan Anderson, presented a conceptual collection, questioning our relationship with the environment, as well as with screens, using surprising materials and shapes, as well as unexpected looks like a dress decorated with giant computer keyboard keys. But it was undoubtedly the last look of the show that really made its mark, with a long black T-shirt, on which was simply written "Her Majesty The Queen 1926-2022 Thank You.” A simple and modest tribute, which moved the guests present and won their support.

In subtle style

Other designers and brands were not as obviously evocative, but still infused their new collections with nods to the Queen. At Paul & Joe, for example, the brand founded by Sophie Mechaly, the poetic outfits were accessorized at the last minute by a series of scarves that covered the models' hair ― a tribute to those worn by Elizabeth II throughout her reign.

"Grief is the price we pay for love.” It is with this phrase, addressed by the Queen to the American people after the attacks of September 11, 2001, that the designer Erdem paid tribute to Elizabeth II, on social networks as well as during his spring-summer 2023 fashion show. The models, some sporting a black veil, sometimes seemed to capture the mood of mourning, in floral dresses evoking the romanticism inherent to the label.

But the most subtle tribute ― if it was one ― came from Harris Reed. And it did not go unnoticed. Here, it was at the end of the show, during the presentation of the traditional bridal look, that the designer showed his respect to the Queen. Made from taffeta remnants, this spectacular dress was accompanied by a bouquet of flowers ― and not just any flowers, since they were sprigs of lily of the valley, the favourite flower of Elizabeth II. Another tribute that shows just how much this London Fashion Week was affected by the death of the sovereign. ― ETX Studio