SITIAWAN (Perak), April 29 — For folks driving to Lumut and Pangkor Island, the sleepy town of Sitiawan is a quick and easy stop to grab a bite and stretch their legs. Originally a settlement for Hock Chew immigrants (most from the Kutien district in Fuzhou, China), Sitiawan is unsurprisingly home to Hock Chew specialties such as red wine mee sua as well as sweet and spicy fish maw soup.

These seem more of evening dishes though, for hours when heavier appetites reign. Those of us on a morning drive prefer lighter breakfast fare. Thanks to recommendations by our friend Ah Tee, whose family hails from Sitiawan, we know just where to go.

We make a beeline for the popular Kampung Koh wet market, bustling before noon. We look for Restoran Lee Chuo, an otherwise well-hidden shop under some big trees opposite the market. Locals flock here for honest-to-goodness noodles such as loh mee, cooked with a Sitiawan twist.

Restoran Lee Chuo is well-hidden under trees opposite the Kampung Koh wet market

Restoran Lee Chuo’s loh mee is certainly different from the loh mee we’ve had elsewhere. The noodles used are locally made kampua noodles, thick and slippery. The standard starchy loh mee broth is levelled up here with the use of dried cuttlefish and bamboo shoots. There’s also the option of mixing their loh mee broth with some asam laksa soup, a version they call loh lak.

Indeed it’s this strange mixture that makes the dish: the pungency of the asam laksa mingling well with the vinegary, gelatinous loh mee gravy. With the addition of Sitiawan’s famous Kampung Koh chilli sauce and special pickled garlic, and this is a bowl with quite a kick! (Those who eschew sour flavours may disagree vehemently, however.)

Our other order of dry kampua noodles, by comparison, looks quite ordinary. Basically a plate of oil-slicked noodles served with a dark sauce and slices of rather lean char siew (barbecued pork). Maybe it’s the springy noodles or maybe it’s the the fact you can’t go wrong with soy sauce, but this unassuming dish hits the mark, perhaps more readily than the loh mee (which will have its detractors, taste and texture-wise).

Other dishes available include the aforementioned asam laksa, Hock Chew wontons (in soup or "dry”, tossed liberally with soy sauce) and dan yan, a bowl of springy tapioca noodles in broth. We quench our thirst with some refreshing calamansi juice and iced mata kuching drink, the perfect beverages for a sunny morning.

Refreshing calamansi juice (front) and iced mata kuching drink (back) (left). Locals in Sitiawan enjoy adding pickled garlic to their loh mee (right)

The shop also sells other Hock Chew specialty products such as handmade mee sua, Hock Chew-style wonton wrappers and the indispensable Kampung Koh chilli sauce. Bottles of the latter can come in a variety of brands; if we asked different locals, everyone would have their own favourite. (Perhaps a taste test is in order?)

Our bellies full, we are ready to continue our journey. But instead of rushing off, we decide stopping for something to snack on during our road trip is in order. Fortunately for us, one of Sitiawan’s most popular treats can be found not far from Kampung Koh wet market.

Ladling the vinegary starchy loh mee gravy

These are gong bian — authentic Hock Chew "biscuits” (though looks-wise, they are closer to small, round flatbreads). There are different versions: plain, stuffed with seasoned pork and scallions, even sweet gong bian. Some are studded with sesame seeds on the top, giving it an extra crunch and fragrance.

Also called kom piang, these traditional delicacies are baked in a vertical clay oven at Kedai Biskut Cheng Li. The pieces of unleavened flatbread dough are pasted on the circular sides of the oven and the baker knows by sight when each piece is ready. Use of charcoal fire adds an unmistakable smokiness to the gong bian, the sesame seeds on its surface getting some lovely char.

Various Hock Chew specialty products such as meesua noodles and Kampung Koh chilli sauce (left). Kedai Biskut Cheng Li is known for their freshly baked Hock Chew "biscuits” called gong bian (right)

Gong bian is best savoured while hot, not too long after it’s removed from the oven with long metal spikes. Aromatic and crispy on the outside, savoury and chewy inside. Enjoyed this way, we understand why there can be quite a wait as regulars call ahead for their orders and leave with big bagfuls of the biscuits.

Left for a day though, and the biscuits harden miserably. For those of us buying to enjoy much later, perhaps after crossing several state lines, it’s best not to use the full heat of a conventional or microwave oven. Our Sitiawan friend advises us to pan fry the gong bian instead and on a very low fire at that.

Removing the gong bian from the clay oven and packing them (left). Gong bian are unleavened flatbreads with a smoky aroma from the charcoal fire used (right)

Sitiawan may well be a stopover for most visitors, oh but what a scrumptious stopover it can be!

Restoran Lee Chuo

No. 1, Jalan Baru, Kampung Koh, Sitiawan, Perak

Open daily (except Mon closed) 5am-6pm

Kedai Biskut Cheng Li

19-52, Jalan Desa Aman 5, Taman Desa Aman, Sitiawan, Perak

Open daily (except Thu closed) 8am-3am

Tel: 016-502 8557