PETALING JAYA, Dec 22 — When did you last have a stick of sate ayam and go "Wow!”?

I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve had such luck. The most recent occasion was at the newest branch of Sate Famili in Mutiara Damansara, which opened in October.

Dating back to 1989, the business started in Meru, where they now have a second location, but this third outlet marks their first venture outside Klang.

Alongside their stellar sate ayam (RM1.50 per stick), the menu includes daging (RM1.60), kambing (RM3), perut (RM2.50), and a rare sighting of arnab (RM3).

While nasi goreng and other simple rice and noodle dishes are also available, we stuck to the hits with our order.

So what makes the chicken so good? Unlike the stringy, often dry texture of lean chicken, the skewers here are made primarily of dark meat – juicy, flavourful thigh cuts.

Each piece is interspersed with a sliver of skin, grilled to a luscious, tender texture.

Fat equals flavour after all, and this bit of skin renders down beautifully with charred edges capturing smoky aromas and oils that spread hints of lemongrass and turmeric from the marinade with every bite.

The fat keeps things so moist that you almost don’t need the kuah kacang (which is free and refillable).

However, the marinade is rather sweet, so your palate may start to feel a little overwhelmed by the eighth or ninth stick.

It’s seldom that chicken is the most impressive meat at a sate spot, but Sate Famili certainly makes a strong case for it.

At RM1.50 per stick, it’s slightly pricier than most places, but for quality like this, it’s well worth it in my book.

We tried the rest of the meats, and while the beef and lamb were mostly good, they paled in comparison to the chicken – a sentence I never thought I’d type, ever.

Unlike the chicken, these skewers are good... until your unfortunate hand grabs the odd tough piece, which can really sour the experience.

On the plus side, the gaminess of the lamb works wonderfully with the sweet marinade, so if you don’t mind the occasional chewy bite, I’d still recommend adding it to your order.

The chewy, far gamier rabbit was less ideal, though if you're a die-hard fan of game meat, this probably won't stop you.

As for the intestines, I'm usually a fan of offal, but these came with a limp, squishy texture that left plenty to be desired.

Stick to the chicken, though – I’ll be returning for lots more of it in the future.

Restoran Sate Famili, Mutiara Damansara

26, Jalan PJU 7/16b, Mutiara Damansara, 47800 Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Open Monday to Saturday, 10am-10pm.

Tel: 011-1115 9955

Facebook: Sate Famili

Instagram: @satefamili

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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*** Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.