KUALA LUMPUR, Dec 16 — For the third year running, the Michelin awards have ignored KL-style Hokkien mee which is not on any of their lists.

Anyone who has lived or visited the Klang Valley knows that the dark, glossy fried noodles are very much a part of the culinary landscape here.

In fact, one reckons it's the one dish synonymous with the city and it is believed to have been created by Ong Kim Lian back in 1927.

For many, it's a must eat every time they come to the city. Some even sneak a frozen packet or two when they return to their homes abroad, to be savoured slowly in the weeks ahead.

It makes the perfect one-dish meal, whether it's lunch, dinner or a late night supper.

Usually after a tasting menu of multiple courses which puts a dent in your wallet, some will joke it's time for Hokkien mee for supper, since no one really gets full from nibbling on dainty premium bites.

Finding a worthy Hokkien mee nowadays though is not an easy task.

One may think, it's just a plate of fried noodles but proper skill is needed to produce an exemplary version.

From wielding the wok to controlling the fire to infuse the noodles with wok hei. Another factor is braising the noodles with stock that must include dried flounder powder for extra oomph!

Even how it's presented is important. The old school places use a piece of banana leaf to line the plate. Apparently it helps absorb any excess oil from the noodles.

Restoran Lian Bee, 32, Jalan Prima Setapak 1, KL

Founded in 1946, the once-iconic stall in Jalan Tun Tan Cheng Lock has now moved into a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Setapak, but the Hokkien mee is just as good under the third generation of the family.

Expect a plate of thick yellow noodles, slices of pork, prawns and cabbage aggressively braised in a jet-black sauce of dark soy, dried sole fish powder and reduced over an infernal flame; all that glorious smoke and char is trapped in the dish without leaving any bitterness behind.

Extra lard is necessary, not optional.

Lao Ping Hokkien Mee, Restoran Seapark, 23, Jalan 21/1, Seapark, PJ.

Expect to wait and wait here.

It's worth it though as the old man still has magic in his hands, working the fiery heat to infuse thick, saucy noodles with wok hei

Inside the glossy pile of noodles, you may be lucky to encounter the few big, fat, crispy chunks of lard inside. Otherwise, ask for extra if you need that crunchy fix.

When the noodles cool down, the sauce will coat the strands, making it even tastier so wait a little.

On the side, the sambal adds a mild spiciness to the Hokkien mee.

Petaling Street Hokkien Charcoal Mee, 46, Jalan Manjoi, Taman Kok Lian, KL

No, it's not in Petaling Street but Taman Kok Lian, in between Jalan Ipoh and Jalan Kuching. That reference links the owner to his former place of employment, Kim Lian Kee.

With 50 plus years under his belt, the skill of wielding the wok produces a fried noodle that has just the right amount of sauce with wok hei.

Rather than the tai lok mee or thick yellow noodles, his customers prefer a medium sized flatter noodle. Ask for it to be swapped to tai lok mee if your preference is for the fatter strands.

Inside the fried noodles, find thicker, tender pork slices and liver. Once a common ingredient, the latter has become rare in Hokkien mee there days.

The sambal here is exceptional. It's crafted from fresh and dried chillies and pungent belacan. Mix it in when the noodles are hot for the sambal to be absorbed by the noodles, adding a layer of spiciness to the whole dish.

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.