KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 24 — Over the last 14 years, Stanley Siew has made a name for himself serving a unique combination of Hakka tai bu mee and beef soup out of Restoran MJ Wang in Sea Park.

I wrote about Yang Ki Beef Noodles last year when the 53-year-old’s stall had already grown into one of the most prominent in the coffeeshop, but I’ve been a regular for close to a decade — which is nothing compared to how long Siew’s family has been in the business.

Yang Ki (or Yang Kee, as written on the original sign) began as a stall on Jalan Peel in 1973, started by Siew’s father.

As a child, Siew learned to cook from both his father and older brother — a story he recounts in a YouTube documentary titled Local Legends, which features him alongside several other veteran hawkers.

Eventually, his older brother took over the main business, moving into a shop lot next to Restoran Queen’s on the corner of Jalan Peel and Jalan Shelley.

At the same time, Siew branched out to Sea Park, while other relatives opened branches in Pandan Indah, Taman OUG and Taman Cheras under the same Yang Ki name, though the English spellings vary — a common practice for Chinese food businesses when branching out.

When Siew’s brother died, he took over the reins in the middle of 2020, balancing both locations by pulling double duty: at Sea Park by day and Jalan Peel at night.

This proved difficult to sustain during the pandemic, leading to the temporary closure of the Jalan Peel location — until March this year.

The reopened shop now features sleek rebranding, with a new logo and clippings of Yang Ki’s legacy, which is a process that began at the Sea Park location.

What should one expect? More of the same? Yes and no.

The tai bu noodles that have become Yang Ki’s signature are every bit as good as I remember them to be — it’s the same chef tossing them, after all.

Springy and soft, ‘QQ’ with just the right amount of bite, I couldn’t resist having two bowls of minced pork noodles (RM9).

But the flavour seemed... saltier, which I really enjoyed.

Siew confirmed my observation, explaining that customer feedback at the Jalan Peel location favoured heavier flavours compared to those at Sea Park.

As a result, he adjusts everything here to be slightly more intense.

It was the same with our bowl of mixed beef soup (RM13) with tripe, brisket, tendon, meat slices, and balls, as well as our pork ball soup (RM9.50).

The offal and meat were cooked till just done, yielding a tender yet gratifying texture, but the balls stole the show.

Both the beef and pork balls are made by hand; the beef balls boast a deeper, meatier flavour, while the pork balls are delicately sweet.

Man, his balls are good — taut, firm, and plump. They’re incredibly enjoyable, though handling more than two at a time might be a bit much for most.

Though only available on Thursdays to Sundays, the beef brisket and radish (RM14) is a firm favourite and it’s easy to see why.

Tough and fatty hunks of brisket have been turned into soft, tender pillows of meat after hours and hours of low and slow braising; the rich, thick liquid now rendered a dark, shiny essence of beef and aromatics.

Nugs of soft and sweet radish bob around for moral support. What a treat.

If the brisket and radish isn’t enough to tempt you, there’s even more on offer next door (the satay is a popular pick), which is also where you’ll get your drinks.

Getting to Yang Ki can be a little tricky, so here’s a tip: park along the stalls near Nasi Lemak Peel Road and turn left at the corner where Restoran Queen’s is located.

Look for a small Yang Kee sign hanging above — it’s a relic from when Siew Senior ran the original Jalan Peel stall, a subtle nod to this family’s 50-year legacy.

Yang Ki Beef Noodles (Jalan Peel)96e, Jalan Peel, Maluri, Kuala LumpurOpen Tuesday to Sunday, 5-10pmTel: 016-348 8141Facebook: @yangkibeefnoodles

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

** Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

*** Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.