KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 14 — Tucked away in a cluster of houses next to Istana Budaya, off Jalan Tun Razak, lies a patch of green where Titiwangsa Wang Kopitiam sits.

This little clearing has been its home for the last 50 years, serving staples like wantan mee, curry mee, and its signature zha jiang noodle, for which it’s become known.

It’s not exactly a "hole-in-the-wall”; rather, it’s one rudimentary structure surrounded by canopy tents on a stretch of concrete beside a large, surprisingly clean drain.

Tall trees cover the area in ample, cooling shade, and on a sunny morning, this shaded spot could almost pass for al fresco dining, with the drain doubling as a central water feature.

Now, about their signature zha jiang noodles (RM8.50). Don’t come here expecting thick wheat noodles topped with a heavy, dark sauce of minced pork and fermented soybeans.

Instead, you’ll get thin, springy wantan noodles topped with a looser, slightly reddish sauce of minced pork. The flavour leaned mostly sweet and sour, with just a hint of savouriness from the fermented soybeans — it reminded me strongly of Hong Kong-style zhajiangmian, known for its bright red, tangy sauce that often includes a touch of ketchup. Yes, ketchup.

Thankfully, this version wasn’t quite as tart, and a hint of heat complemented the noodles’ delightful chewiness very well. The fat nugs of pork lard certainly didn’t hurt, either.

The same thin, springy strands appear in their wantan mee (RM8), though the dry, lacklustre char siew put a dent in the otherwise terrific noodles — thankfully, an added portion of braised chicken feet and mushrooms (RM4) just about salvaged the dish.

The curry mee was much better (RM8.50), with a rich, warming curry, though a tad light on the santan. It was a decent bowl, and the curry goes great with a number of snacks on the menu.

The Guangxi tofu pok (RM11) and fried wantan (RM7) were both solid options; the tofu pok was stuffed full of pork and scallions and served in a light broth while the fried wantan enjoyed some serious dunking.

Aside from the zha jiang noodles, other intriguing offerings include a salt and pepper chicken chop, deep-fried pork tenderloin, and Thai-style smoked duck — hardly typical kopitiam breakfast fare.

But then again, nothing about this place, from the location and setting to its signature dishes, is typical. Just don’t forget to bring cash.

Titiwangsa Wang Kopitiam

11, Jalan Maran, Titiwangsa, 53200 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur

Open daily, 7.30am-2pm. Closed every other Sunday.

Tel: ‪016-221 8006

Facebook: @titiwangsawangkopitiam

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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