KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 10 — Up on Bukit Persekutuan (more familiarly known as Federal Hill), nestled beside Galeri Sri Perdana, is one of KL’s quieter corners.
It’s home to Warung Pagi Pagi, which opened in March this year but garnered attention in May when His Majesty Sultan Ibrahim, King of Malaysia, visited.
Like His Majesty, the family behind Warung Pagi Pagi also hails from Johor, which explains the presence of dishes like mee bandung and soto on the extensive menu.
Conceived as a simple, modest warung in the heart of the city, it’s easy to understand the appeal behind it.
For many, finding a calm, inviting place to eat and relax often means a trip to the suburbs, away from the city’s hustle and bustle.
Most options in the city either sit by a busy road or are surrounded by the incessant hum of a city perpetually under construction.
Here, Warung Pagi Pagi trades the busy road for a single, small lane and the drone of steel and concrete for the song of birds in the trees.
The main building once housed a souvenir shop but now holds a few tables for diners.
Most guests sit under canopy tents off to the side, where ample shade keeps the area cool and comfortable.
Breakfast is arguably when the best offerings are available, with the extensive menu organised by the time of day.
Staples like nasi lemak ayam rempah (RM12) are served all day, while more Johor-centric specialities such as lempeng sambal bilis (RM6), soto ayam (RM10) and mee bandung tulang Muo (RM25) are only available until noon.
The nasi lemak was satisfying, as was the juicy, flavourful ayam goreng berempah.
Even with a sambal that leans slightly sweet, it held up better than a number of viral nasi lemak places you might’ve heard about lately.
But the real highlights were the Johor specialities. The lempeng were soft and light, like little crepes that go with sambal and ikan bilis instead of whipped cream.
The soto ayam was unexpectedly hearty – a word I rarely use for chicken, but here it fits.
The broth was boldly spiced, with turmeric being the most striking flavour in what is a very soul-soothing bowl of essentially chicken noodle soup.
Loaded with a hulking mass of beef shank and two large prawns, their mee bandung is a luxuriant take on the Muar classic.
Thick and teeming with the sweet, crustacean depth of prawns, the kuah alone is worth the price of admission.
Despite its name, Warung Pagi Pagi stays open till 1am. At night, string lights line the surrounding trees, creating a pleasant scene on a clear, starry evening like the one I had.
The menu after dark is mostly tom yam, nasi goreng, an assortment of mee, bihun and kuetiau dishes, as well as various snacks and desserts.
Nasi goreng kampung (RM12) was a highlight, full of well-fried, crunchy kangkung and plenty of crispy ikan bilis, just the way I like it.
Mee goreng daging (RM13) featured yellow noodles in a characteristically sweet, dark sauce, and while the slices of beef weren’t the most tender, they were sliced thin enough to be enjoyable.
The real stars of the night, however, are the adjacent food stalls, where you can order and eat anywhere you like.
The sate is more than decent; sticks of both daging (RM1.80) and kambing (RM2.20) were grilled till seriously charred, but the latter just edges it for me in terms of texture and taste.
Best of all was the laksa utara (RM15) from the stall closest to the main building, which came in a paper bowl full of thick, grainy gravy bursting with fishiness.
Chunks of asam keping bob around this Kedah classic, which gets even more savoury if you decide to add the petis udang or hae ko on the side, a thick, molasses-like substance that is shrimp paste.
Warung PagiPagi (Federal Hill)
Lot 1, Galeria Sri Perdana, Jalan Terengganu, Bukit Persekutuan, 59000 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur
Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8am-1am
Tel: 019‑243 0878
Instagram: @warungpagipagi.federalhill
TikTok: @warungpagipagi.fh
*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
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