Eat-drink
Fall in love with the ‘puri’ (for breakfast) and a lunch spread of Indian eats at Kampung Attap’s SS Spicy Food
The dough puffs up in hot oil as the water inside the dough transforms into steam. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 14 — Puri to my right. Puri to my left. A server walks past me with two mountains of puri for a table outside.

The Universe is telling me I should have puri for my breakfast.

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I was at SS Spicy Food but it’s not how regulars refer to the place. Instead everyone calls it "Bawah Pokok” and that is the name on their bank account as I found out when I paid by DuitNow.

Sadly the iconic big tree that had sheltered them for more than 30 years was recently cut down by the authorities.

Despite seeing this place every time I visit a cafe nearby for my caffeine boost, I have not stepped foot inside it.

The big tree that sheltered them for so many years may be gone but now they have Merdeka 118 towering above. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

One day I decided to explore it for breakfast. From what I read on social media, it’s been pegged as a place for Indian mixed rice. That will be for later.

With puri all around me, I had to try it for myself.

They arrive. Those glorious golden puffy pillows are piping hot but I cannot resist pulling a piece to pop into my mouth.

It’s crisp on the edges with a soft texture. No oily fingers too, after that greedy bite.

Fluffy golden ‘puri’ can be paired with dhal, curry and a scoop of coconut chutney. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

I was happy to just enjoy it on its own. But it felt like a cop-out so I followed what my neighbour did.

First a scoop of dhal, followed by a dab of redness from the curry and yes, a big spoonful of the coconut chutney.

I do like the rich coconut chutney but the dhal plus the curry has rather mild flavours. Instead, I go back to enjoying the puri just on its own, washed down with a hot creamy teh tarik.

At RM1.20 per piece, it makes a very affordable start to my morning.

I did see a table of four guys bulking up their protein with chicken curry and mutton peratal, to accompany their mountain of puri, so maybe that’s the way to tackle it.

Should you not be inclined towards puri, the breakfast spread has a selection of idly, chickpeas, vadai, roti canai, thosai and more.

I also tried the upma paired with coconut chutney. It can also be eaten with sugar; I saw one of the diners tucking into his plate of upma that way,

Another good find was their appam. It’s a simple coconut version, where they ladle thin coconut milk over the crispy edged pancake.

‘Appam’ can be made to order and served drenched in a ladle of fresh coconut milk. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

The slightly sweet coconut milk adds a nice milky, soft touch to the pancake which is best eaten with your hands.

Once breakfast is over at noon, it’s the lunch spread everyone is waiting for to fill their hungry bellies.

Behind the counter where the dishes are laid out, you will see multiple woks lined up, where they cook up the food.

On Friday, I scored healthy mint rice. There’s biryani too with fish. I even got to try their mutton curry. While it’s flavourful, I did feel some pieces of the meat weren’t as tender as I prefer.

What I enjoyed was the fried chicken. Almost every table had it on the side, indicating its popularity.

The fried chicken is a must for everyone who dines here. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

You pick your preferred piece and hand it over at the counter. They’ll flatten it while it’s covered with a plastic sheet. Once the sheet is removed, it gets chopped to semi-large pieces and placed onto a small plate for you,

The flavour is in the crust. Relish the juicy meat with the crispy skin for a salty kick. Now I understand why everyone orders it.

I could see how they would fry the chicken in batches, keeping it crunchy. Once one batch hits the tray, it disappears quickly.

I enjoyed the vegetables too: pumpkin, snake gourd and the small brinjals. Apparently fried cauliflower is popular too but I didn’t try that.

Behind the counter, you can see their cooking stations where all the dishes are made fresh. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

So far my multiple visits here have been enjoyable. And the crowd is diverse indeed. You see Indian families bringing their young ones mingling with office workers. Everyone is here.

A word of advice though if you’re dining here for brunch. It’s best to sit outside on the tables and chairs all around the pavement as the food smells may permeate into your hair and clothes, causing your colleagues severe food envy when you return to the office.

There’s no signboard to point you to this place but look for the Chinese Assembly Hall and it’s at the corner of Jalan Akar and Jalan Belfield.

You may even spot the owner Suresh Devar behind the counter while his mother cooks up the food. The family business also offers catering services.

The signboard is on the side of the structure. — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi

SS Spicy Food, 7& 8, Jalan Akar, Kampung Attap, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily: 7am to 4.30pm. Tel:012-9029194. Facebook:@KLBawahPokok Instagram:@ss_spicyfood

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.

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