Eat-drink
Are casual offshoots of finer dining places the way to attract new diners, encourage more spending? Three KL and PJ places suggest the answer is yes
Bar.Kar, the casual offshoot of Eat and Cook, has diners sitting around the action where the grilling takes place — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
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In KL, Chocha Foodstore has made a name for its take on Malaysian food that won't break your wallet, under its executive chef Mui Kai Quan who joined them five years ago. Previously the restaurant served family-style meals.

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Chocha Foodstore executive chef Mui Kai Quan (right) with chef de cuisine Nazri talk about their new venture Kai New Nusantara Eatery — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa

Under the hands of Nazri Gapur, their chef de cuisine, diners have been introduced to his unique East Malaysia flavours the last two years.

Be adventurous and order the ambuyat or sticky sago palm tree starch, a dish not seen much in this side of Malaysia.

There's even ulam lemang, where Nazri makes the bamboo rice from scratch using a slow cooked method.

In Chocha's a la carte menu, the prices for their dishes are kept affordable. There's also a chef selection menu curated to highlight their best picks.

Mui admits it's not easy maintaining those prices and even though diners are appreciative, they are struggling with the rising costs like rental, manpower and ingredients.

"We would like to charge higher but looking at the response of the public like how people think of us, we can't take a big step in terms of pricing."

Instead, they look towards events and collaborations that help generate money for the restaurant.

This year, Kai New Nusantara Eatery opened its doors in REXKL, which is operated by one of Chocha's partners, Shin Chang.

The space located at the back of REXKL is easily spotted from afar — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa

It hopes to recreate the success that the previous Warung had, where many tourists would flock there for the Malay food.

Created by Nazri, the menu is different from Chocha's, where the foundation is focused on South-east Asian fare.

Previously a fisherman, Nazri decided he wanted to learn more about cooking rather than just catching the ingredients so he moved to KL to work in restaurants like Rasa Utara and Italiannies to build up his cooking skills.

"It's a modern approach, whereby some familiar dishes are given a twist," explained Mui.

Here, the laksam is reinterpreted into a lighter bowl, where a nose to tail approach is adopted.

Laksam is a bowl of goodness with fish broth, ‘chee cheong fun’, fresh herbs and flaked fish — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

"We like to use the whole product so for the fish, from the flesh and bones we will use the bones as well as we don't like to waste anything," said Mui

The broth is light with just the slightest whisper of coconut milk. As the fish is deboned and flaked, one mixes it all together with the fresh torch ginger flower and herbs.

What's also unique is the use of chee cheong fun or flat steamed rice rolls to replicate the laksam noodles.

These have a lighter, delicate texture that marries well with the broth and fish. Even though Kai is at a lower price range compared to Chocha, Mui practises the same standard operating procedures like Chocha, where all their pastes are made from scratch.

"We want to run almost like a nasi padang but the food is cooked fresh. It is a restaurant standard for food but we want it to be affordable and something different from Chocha."

Even though the food is casual, their dishes are prepared only upon order to keep things fresh — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa

For their Lontong Sayur, this is cooked upon order, rather than stewed in a pot. It's the same for their Asam Pedas Ikan too.

Lontong Sayur is only cooked once someone places the order to keep the vegetables fresh — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa

"It may look the same but the twist is not so evident," explained Mui.

The menu also shines a light on utilising certain ingredients in a new way, like their Sate Lilit Tongkol.

A meal at Kai New Nusantara Eatery is a satisfying one especially with their jasmine rice sprinkled with their own made pressed coconut oil, paired with Sate Lilit Tongkol using the local skipjack tuna and Bebek Madura with its spice paste topping — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa

Instead of the usual fish or chicken, they use the abundant ikan tongkol, favoured for gulai served with nasi dagang, to form the chunky skewers.

"We like the flavour as it goes well with the spices. It's very underrated in restaurants but it's meaty, fresh and easily accessible."

Cucur Udang also gets a flavour makeover here with the use of rainbow prawns that is sweeter compared to the usual variety used. It's served with a tangy pineapple curry.

Cucur Udang uses rainbow prawns for a sweet taste — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Nasi Campur is the best way to enjoy the meal — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Daging Rendang is made with beef brisket — Picture by Lee Khang Yi

Keeping it traditional, the classics like Daging Rendang sees beef brisket being gently cooked till it is fork tender.

Influenced by southern Thailand, the Pajeri Nenas sees sweet pineapple mingling with the spices in the curry.

Southern Thailand Pajeri Nenas is paired with quail eggs cooked with ‘sambal’ — Picture by Yusof Mat Isa

The menu also includes Bebek Masak Hitam, where braised local duck is slathered with bumbu hitam usually served in Madura.

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