KUALA LUMPUR, Feb 19 — Why are there so many eateries serving Sarawak dishes? How can one place trump another? Those were my thoughts when I ventured to Kepong to explore Mouth Mee.

All those doubts were dispelled when I slurped down my curly red kolo mee. One bite wasn't enough, I kept eating more of those lardy noodles with a tinge of sweetness from the char siu sauce.

I may not be from Sarawak but I do know a good bowl of noodles and this kolo mee was definitely a winner.

Now I understand why my friend had highly recommended this place that opened about four months ago.

Mouth Mee may be relatively unknown but its pedigree can be traced to the popular Lin Li Xiang in Damansara Jaya.

If I had to compare both — apple for apple — I prefer the airy, spacious atmosphere here. It's made even better with the warm service from the couple who run the place with bright smiles and efficiency.

The menu pays tribute to their Kuching heritage. Find Sarawak favourites like kolo mee, laksa, fried mani chai noodles and so forth. It's truly a family place as they also brought out dishes they serve at home, like their homemade Hakka yong tau foo and pork stomach soup with Sarawak pepper.

Back to their kolo mee. There's a whopping 10 choices of kolo mee here. In a way, this menu tries to cover various permutations to satisfy everyone's preferences. You find a vegetarian version, side by side with say the unusual chicken wing pairing or the noodles with soup served on the side.

My Kolo Mee — Special (RM12.50 for a regular portion) was enough to keep me happy. It's reddish, thanks to the use of char siu sauce. The noodles are topped with liver, pork slices, prawns and fish cake slices.

While the toppings may be substantial, they felt a little dry and overcooked. Never mind, the star of the show was those slurp worthy noodles. You also get a bowl of clear broth with fish balls and pork balls.

And of course, one must try their Sarawak Laksa. There's two versions, the basic one for RM12 while there's the special for RM15. The basic version includes shredded chicken and omelette, prawns and bean sprouts.

I packed home the Sarawak Laksa Special. When I opened my takeaway, I found my noodles cradled in a half portion of fluffy omelette. There's also an assortment of goodies to keep me happy. I counted two tiny pork balls, char siu slices, thick cut fish cake slices, crunchy fried wantans, omelette strips, shredded chicken and two small prawns.

What makes their laksa exceptional is the balanced flavour. It's more spice forward compared to other places. Your brain will scramble to try to identify them... maybe ground coriander, pepper and lemongrass? As less santan is used, it is also healthier for us. This is the kind of broth, one can easily drink to the very last drop.

The paste is made in-house, making their mix unique rather than others who start from a commercial paste which they then tweak to taste.

As you drink more of that flavour packed broth, there'll be a tingle of heat. Mix in the sambal for more fire.

What I liked was how generous they are with the calamansi limes (they give you two rather than the usual one). The broth needs that zingy touch to cut through the richness.

Whenever I spy Fried Mani Cai Rice Noodles (RM12), it's a definite order.

Their version is incredibly flavourful, thanks to the dried shrimps used. What I liked was how it wasn't dripping with oil.

I had taken away the portion I didn't manage to finish. It was only much later, I remembered to eat it for a late dinner.

As it was all wrapped up in plastic, every strand of the beehoon was infused with the rich fragrance from the dried prawns. Even eaten cold, it was super addictive.

They also have an option to use the curly kolo mee, which would make an interesting combination. And if you prefer it without carbohydrates, there's also just stir fried mani cai with egg.

Here, they also serve kiaw or their wantans. It's a bit longer in shape. There's a dry version topped with minced pork or served with a clear soup. You can also have it fried. The Dry Kiaw (RM8) I tried wasn't the best I have eaten as I would have liked a silkier skin. It's still good for a side dish. The fried kiaw, which I got for the laksa, would probably taste better especially when eaten fresh.

Usually, the specialty is Three Layer Tea. In this case though, it's the coffee version that is much nicer. Apparently they bring in the coffee from Sarawak, hence it's incredibly fragrant, even with the milk and sugar layer. Try both and decide which you prefer. You may be like me and fall for the coffee combination. The three layer drinks are RM4.90 each.

There's more to try on their menu. Maybe Sarawak Tomato Noodles with some of their homemade yong tau foo for my next visit?

Parking can be iffy depending on timing. Scoring a space right In front of the shop seems to be difficult so I usually park at the back row, nearer to the MRT station.

Mouth Mee, Lot 2A, Jalan Rimbunan Raya, Laman Rimbunan, Kepong, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 9.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 9.30pm. (Tuesday to Friday), 9.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to 10pm. (Saturday and Sunday). Closed on Monday. Tel:+6011-25620055. Facebook:@mouthmee

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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