PETALING JAYA, Dec 14 — Of all the delightful things I’ve had the pleasure of eating, pak cham kai stands out as a longtime favourite.

Growing up, I was most fond of the smooth and slightly gelatinous skin, along with the pure, clean-tasting flesh but I was less enthusiastic about the accompanying ginger paste.

Conventionally, it comprises ginger, garlic and scallions but the sometimes sharp and almost biting quality in some versions meant I usually stayed away.That, to a lesser extent, still remains the case today, with the sole exception of when I go to Restoran Kong Sai in Taman Paramount.

Starting life as a stall in 1996, the restaurant opened in 2002, with further locations in Puchong and Cheras opening since.

The name refers to Guangxi, a region in Southern China bordering Vietnam to the south and Guangdong to the east.

In front of the premises is a vast earthenware jar, in which smaller jars of soup, like their signature pig’s stomach soup, are cooked and kept warm.

Inside, the walls are plastered with pictures of dishes, as well as a poster explaining the intricacies of making soup in giant clay jars.

A quarter of the pak cham kai (RM18) arrives with two saucers of what is quite possibly the most addictive and irresistible ginger paste I’ve ever tasted.

Far from the pungency I had become accustomed to, this rendition features minced ginger and garlic meticulously cooked down to rich, deep brown, unveiling sweet, caramelised notes.

Meanwhile, the addition of spring onions maintains its vibrant green freshness, adding a delightful contrast to the overall experience.

Paired with silky skin and mild, slightly savoury chicken, you’re left with a compelling combination that’s kept me and a loyal crowd of regulars coming back for years.

In addition to being one of my favourite spots for pak cham kai, Kong Sai also boasts some of the finest Pig's Stomach Soup (RM20) in town.

Be warned: they do not skimp on the white pepper here, and no matter how many times I’ve had it, I always let out a sputtering cough of surprise at the first sip.

As potent as it may be, the soup maintains a remarkable balance and depth.

The initial zing eventually subsides, giving way to a comforting, satisfying warmth that wraps around your inner being.

Pieces of pork belly, stomach and button mushrooms provide plenty to snack on.

The Pork Trotters in Vinegar (RM18) are also excellent.

It’s hard not to exclaim "Wow” after a sip of this stuff, and even if you aren’t usually a fan of vinegar, I implore you to give this a chance.

Bold but not harsh, tangy yet not acerbic, it carries a little sweetness and spice to round out the acidity.

There isn’t much meat to eat off the trotters, but sucking on the gelatinous bits off the bone is made all the more satisfying by the marbled liquid.

The silky-smooth consistency owes itself to the generous amount of fat rendered out from the trotters.

To conclude the meal, we had a pair of dishes that, while more than decent, didn't particularly stand out.

Curry Pork Ribs (RM20) were recommended to us when we ordered, and while they were tasty and tender, I wouldn't describe them as outstanding.

Attempting to maintain the crumbling illusion of a healthy diet, I ordered Stir-fried Green Dragon Vegetables (RM16), which were mostly fresh and crunchy, albeit a bit salty.

Restoran Kong Sai

39, Jalan 20/16, Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-9pm

Tel: 012-298 4038

Facebook:@restaurantkongsai

*This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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