KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 29 — For some, the faded signboard of a restaurant may indicate that it has seen better days.

For me, it means I'm walking into a place so old that their cooking skills must be exemplary since it's been honed day after day, year after year.

That's how it felt at Restoran Golden Roast, hidden in the depths of Taman Sri Sentosa.

The area may not be sparkly and modern but it boasts many great eateries like Sentosa Chapati and Choi Kee Hokkien Mee.

Now I can add Golden Roast to that happy list of eats here.

Some food lovers may already know Golden Roast from their USJ2 food truck, as they have been selling there for more than 30 years.

This place is where their kitchen is located and for lunch, you can dine-in here or take away.

It's hard to choose which item I like the most. If I could, I would like to eat all of their roast meats.

Let's start with the roast duck (RM22 for bottom quarter portion), said to be Hong Kong style.

The skin is not those shattering crispy ones.

Instead the beauty lies in its juicy, fine meat and the crazy flavour from the brown jus poured out from the duck's belly which has been stuffed with herbs and spices, after roasting.

The sauce isn't as herbal as other places, making it palatable to all.

Most importantly too, the duck isn't gamey.

I reckon my next favourite is the roast pork.

Here the meat and fatty layer is tender and moist, a rarity with many stalls that cannot seem to balance roasting times and the control of the fire, until the meat ends up with a harsh bite.

The best part is the crackling on top. It's got a fine, even texture that gives a light crispy bite, thanks to the old roasting master in the kitchen.

For some, the char siu may not look appealing since it's not charred till it is sticky but it's the texture that matters, since each piece is juicy.

If you're not into roast duck or looking for a change, they offer a roast chicken which is pretty good too.

You also have Fried Lorbak (RM1.50 per piece) here, something older roast meats places like Seapark's Restoran Hoe Fong Chicken Rice used to offer.

As the rolls are thinner, the quality is a little inconsistent. The first time I ate it, the rolls were juicy inside with a crispy skin. However on my second visit, it was over fried until it became dry and hard.

If you wish to sample this, maybe ask for those rolls that are not too burnt the next time.

What I also liked was how they would douse the roast meats with a combination of brown sauce and drippings from the roasting, rather than the usual soy sauce and oil mixture.

Your meal is served with a plate of light yellow hued rice and a bowl of clear soup using the offcuts from their roasting.

The chilli sauce tends to be rather insipid though. Stick to that fragrant brown sauce and you will happily polish off every scrap of the meat and rice.

The food truck is parked along Jalan USJ2/6 from 3pm to 7pm, where it's a neighbourhood fixture and you can see a queue for the roast duck.

Restoran Golden Roast, 7, Jalan Sri Sentosa 11A/133, Taman Sri Sentosa, Off Jalan Klang Lama, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 11.30am to 2pm. Closed on Monday and Tuesday. Tel:03-77834202/016-2849288.

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