KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 26 — A decade ago, the perception of French cuisine in Kuala Lumpur was that it seemed largely confined to the white tablecloth and expensive silverware of fine dining.

Options for traditional, but unpretentious French cooking seemed limited, but nowadays, we seem to be witnessing a desire to depart from the rigidity and formality of fine dining across various cuisines, French included.

Today, it is easier than ever before to find "French food” or at least, French-inspired or adjacent food, in any number of self-labelled bistros and brasseries.

So where does one go to eat their fill of escargot, gorge on duck confit or indulge in a classic tarte Tatin?

Filtering through le bien et le mal (good and evil) to find simple but refined French cooking in a relaxed, almost modest, setting, I find myself at an inner corner of Jalan Bangsar Utama, down a staircase and into a lovely place that is almost completely hidden from view after dark.