KUALA LUMPUR, Oct 16 — Lately, the temptation to try brand spanking new places have left me badly burnt with a slew of mediocre food.

These eateries were all hype, despite the crowds and long queues of people elbowing their way for a table.

This got me thinking that sometimes it's time to show some love to older places, like Mangkuk by GC (Mangkuk) that started back in March this year.

The key man here is Ding and Mangkuk charts his life in food.

You have his Kelantanese Nyonya heritage, thanks to his mother. This can be seen in the Signature Hong Bak, Vegetarian Nasi Kerabu and Kelantanese Ayam Kerutuk.

With his culinary training in French cuisine, kitchen stints in Singapore and Switzerland, the food here also bears the stamp of a skilled chef.

Cue that perfectly crisp skin on the delicate sea bass from the Tomato Masala Fish.

It's a flexible menu. If you're flying solo, just order the dish as a rice set where you get a bowl of rice accompanied by housemade pickles. Or bring more people to share the goodness.

After my first visit to Mangkuk, it sparked off a flurry of visits by my friends.

I had told them how impressed I was with the food. Next thing I know, two groups of friends had visited it within the same week. Both groups raved about the food.

In fact, it was through word of mouth that I discovered Mangkuk too. Never underestimate the power of a recommendation, which is a more honest opinion than any Google review.

The Signature Hong Bak (RM26) rightly holds that coveted title of being the star of this place.

This dish feels like a warm hug with its knockout combination of soy sauce, fermented soybean paste and spices like star anise, cinnamon, cloves and black pepper. In fact, I was scraping the last of the gravy from the bowl.

The pork belly slices are tender too. It's definitely a dish you will be eating with copious bowls of rice.

When my friends dined there, they voted the Tomato Masala Fish (RM28) as their second favourite. After trying it out, I can understand what the fascination is all about.

The sea bass is filleted beautifully and pan fried till its skin is crispy. It may look pale to the eye but one bite and you get a light crunch followed by the silky, sweet flesh of the fish.

The killer is the tomato masala sauce. The tempered spices were reined in perfectly to give that bright red creamy sauce a subtle tanginess and fragrance that makes you want to mop up every bit.

The fish sits on a bed of roasted cauliflower florets that keeps it from soaking in the sauce which may ruin that crisp skin.

From their small bites section, you have their Pomelo & Long Bean Salad (RM12). It's a refreshing salad with the sweet pomelo and tender long beans, cut longer for more texture.

It makes a tangy beginning to whet your appetite with its asam lime vinaigrette. I liked how it also had a generous portion of herbs including the torch ginger flower.

Most of the items I tried were hits. However, the Vegetarian Nasi Kerabu (RM12) felt like a misstep, mainly due to a weak coconut sauce.

The herb rice salad needed more heft in the sauce to show a presence of flavours. Instead, turn towards the lacto fermented sambal to give the whole ensemble a lift of spiciness.

I reckon more visits are needed to try their Asam Budu Sweet & Sour Pork, Kelantanese Ayam Kerutuk, Grilled Eggplant with Budu Aioli.

Looking for parking during lunch is still doable, albeit one needs to make a few rounds around the block. Dinnertime sees fewer people in this busy commercial area.

Mangkuk by GC, 44, Jalan Medan Putra 3, Medan Putra Business Centre, Bandar Menjalara, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 11am to 9pm. Closed on Sunday. Tel:012-9446189. Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/mangkukmy_/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100095104994925

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