PETALING JAYA, July 28 — Long before Taman Paramount found itself swimming in mullets and thrifted jackets, it was known for roast duck. But this is not a story about that famous stall.

This is a story about a neighbour that, for one reason or another, has gone largely unnoticed.

Fanfare and fame have largely eluded them, and they are frequented mostly by locals and regulars who continue to come back for fuss-free dai chow fare, and you guessed it, roast duck.

Luck Kee Seafood Restaurant sits on the corner of one of the inner streets, diagonally perpendicular to the row of shops where the famous roast duck stall, One Half x ilaika and Wheel Speeds Automobile Tyre are located.

Bet you can’t name me a more oddball trio.

There is no sign in sight, for it is almost entirely obscured by a healthy collection of trees which double as cooling cover for the "al fresco” dining area.

We arrived early, which secured us a table inside the air-conditioned area.

You will find the roast duck stall set up in front of the restaurant.

This one’s called Chan Kee and is as captivating a sight as one can hope for.

Whole ducks dangle temptingly, calling out from behind the window like a brand new toy to a child.

And just like those toys, these ducks sell like hotcakes, so it’s recommended that you call ahead to book yours just as we did.

A pleasant little chat with the lady taking our order revealed that Luck Kee has been around since 1987, and moved to Taman Paramount from Sea Park some 20 years ago.

No sooner had we concluded our order than the roast duck arrived, glowing, shining and dripping with allure.

We got the whole bird (RM75), bones and all, which arrived with a pair each of light and tangy chilli sauce and an incredibly dark and deeply intensely flavoured sauce.

It’s got everything you’d ask for in a proper roast duck.

Crisp skin that’s softened just a little, having been kissed with a layer of rendered fat.

Juicy flesh that, in certain pockets, is bursting at the seams with the flavour of a thousand different traditional Chinese herbs, producing an intensely savoury experience.

The rest of our dishes soon followed, all emblematic staples of low-frills dai chow fare.

Har Cheong Pai Kuat (RM28), or deep-fried pork ribs marinated in fermented shrimp paste are a salty, crunchy and delightfully greasy addition to the meal.

Take great pleasure in indulging in each umami-laden bite.

Next was steamed fish (RM55), a whole tilapia topped with a mixture of fermented black beans and crispy fried garlic with a seasoned soy sauce.

Again, I spared no expense when it comes to skyrocketing my sodium levels, and I enjoyed every bite of clean-tasting fish drenched in a cocktail of savoury elements.

Finally, in an attempt to appease my gut health, we finished with an order of Kangkung Belacan (RM16), which was tucked into in a keen fashion.

I’ve yet to stumble upon a poor meal here, and there is a charming aesthetic here that I just can’t get enough of.

The faded red plastic chairs, wooden roundtables and staff thrice my age are a stark contrast to the artsy furniture and even artsier-looking staff of some newer additions to the neighbourhood, but I’m enjoying every bit of the dichotomy, hopeful that it continues for years to come.

Restaurant Luck Kee Seafood

2, Jalan 20/16a, Taman Paramount, Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Open daily, 10am-2:30pm, 5-9:30pm

Closed every 2nd and 4th Tuesday of the month

Tel: 019-213 8382

Chan Kee Roast Duck

Open on days the restaurant is open, 4:30pm onwards

Tel: 012-665 0750/013-206 3367

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