SHAH ALAM, July 16 — The East Coast, in particular Terengganu and Kelantan, is well represented at Warung Ambo.

Nasi kerabu and nasi dagang dominate across the board, served with an expansive variety of lauk, but one can also find specialties like laksam here.

Occupying two shoplots on a corner, the operation here is sizable and can be pretty intense during peak hours.

As you enter from the front, you can follow the line that snakes along all the way out, or if you’re lucky, find yourself at the very front, face to face with the large spread of dishes to gaze longingly at.

Large pots of gulai, budu and hotel buffet-type trays of kerabu and kerisik meet your gaze, each jostling for your attention, but fret not.

Focus on the board ahead, with everything carefully catalogued and thoughtfully listed, price and all.

Nasi Kerabu Ayam Ambo and Telur Masin (RM9.50) are my go-to.

Watching it get plated is a marvel in itself, and by the time the final ladle of sauce envelopes the deep blue rice, enjoying each bite is already a foregone conclusion.

Surely, it tastes as good as it looks, right?

The answer is a resounding yes.

After some mixing, each spoonful of rice, budu, kerabu and sambal evokes the iconic Forrest Gump quote, "My mom always said life was like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna get.".

You may find some intensely green ulam raja in one bite, funky fermented budu the next, or maybe you get a piece of fishy keropok; whatever the case, it keeps you digging in for more.

The chicken is seasoned well and fried, but is little more than a side piece to the rice, the main star.

Another appealing protein option for no change in price is the daging bakar, which is smoky and tender to the bite.

While it isn’t what one would describe as juicy, I actually enjoy the drier texture as it complements the complex textural experience of the rest of the dish.

Nasi Dagang Daging Kerutuk and Telur (RM10) is an excellent option for something a little less herb-laden and a little more heavy and rich.

Chocolate in colour, the rich coconut-milk based gravy resembles something braised in red wine for hours, with a consistency so thick it easily coats the back of a spoon.

The beef is tender, with a deeply nuanced flavour from the presence of spices like cinnamon and star anise.

Paired with a bit of tangy acar timun, spicy and salty sambal belacan, fluffy and fragrant rice, it’s a balanced and complete dish.

Teh Madu Ambo (RM5) is the obvious choice to wash it all down.

Wildly sweet, milky and frothy beyond belief, it's a drink that doubles as a tonic and a dessert to your meal, all in one.

Come here and come early, as a line starts to form anywhere after 11am and it can get incredibly busy.

Warung Ambo Laman Glenmarie

38, Jalan Novelis U1/86A, Laman Glenmarie, Shah Alam

Open Tuesday to Sunday, 8.30am-4pm

Tel: 011-2107 2102

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