KUALA LUMPUR, May 14 – Sometimes living out in the suburbs means one might miss out on some hidden gems tucked away deep inside the city, but the flip side is when a long overdue trip to the city finally happens, the ephemeral joy of finding something new and delicious for the first time is second to none.

Even more so, when the place is doing something pretty unique like at Song Lim Restaurant, found off Jalan Loke Yew.

Most of us familiar with lou shu fun will have no doubt seen or had it in a clay pot, as is most commonly found. But at Song Lim, it’s done with a "creamy butter” sauce, though I think there’s a little more to it than that.

I know what you’re thinking. I felt the same on my first impression. Butter Lou Shu Fun ?

But I kept an open mind and was thankfully rewarded.

The signature here, it’s RM34 for a medium portion and comes looking... not very buttery.

Instead of the bright yellow, viscous and gloopy mess I was expecting, I was faced with something far lighter, dyed an incredibly light orange by the presence of curry powder, with a thin and almost watery texture.

Strands of lou shu fun, smooth and slippery as they are, take on the mildly-flavoured sauce pretty well, while plenty of goodies like bits of shrimp and squid are scattered everywhere along with a generous helping of crispy dried shrimp or har mai that adds some much-needed umami to the overall dish.

Like many other Chinese establishments, Song Lim does a wide variety of dishes that are a little less far out, and you can find pictures of most of them on the wall.

Salted Egg Mantis Prawns (RM34 for small) is a pretty recognisable dish that doesn’t always bring much surprise, but the version here is free from the unpleasant grainy texture that’s often a consequence of using salted egg powder as opposed to actual salted eggs.

The result is equal parts savoury, rich and funnily enough, buttery and is a great bite in between bowls of lou shu fun.

Dark Beer Braised Chicken (RM30 for small) is probably more accurately fried chicken pieces in a stout-based sauce.

A preparation that’s also found with pork ribs, the crispy fried bits of meat are glazed in a dark, sticky and caramel-like sauce with notes of coffee coming from the bitterness in the stout.

Perhaps the most unassuming dish, the Three Egg Spinach (RM26 for small) has everything you want: hefty chunks of both salted and century eggs and a broth that’s well-seasoned, possibly with a superior stock base.

The largest dish was the Salted Sauce Fried Fish Head (RM58), though I think braised might be more accurate.

Bits of soft, tender fish head meat are absolutely drenched in a dark, salty and tangy sauce with bits of black beans, fried ginger and tomatoes. If we weren’t already eating noodles, this would be a dream to eat with plain rice.

The full menu at Song Lim is an exhaustive list, but the forte here seems to lean towards noodles as opposed to rice.

Classic dishes like Hokkien Mee and Mapo Tofu can also be found here, but with something as unusual as Butter Lou Shu Fun, wouldn’t you rather go for that instead?

Song Lim Restaurant

No 3, Persiaran Jubilee, Off, Jln Loke Yew, Kuala Lumpur

Open Monday to Sunday, 11am-10pm; Closed on Tuesday

Tel: 019-380 2926

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/songlimrestaurant/

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