PETALING JAYA, April 27 — Even before Yat Yat Seng opened its doors on April 26, there already was a buzz among Ipoh transplants living in the Klang Valley who recognised that iconic name.

Speculation was rife about the Taman Megah shop. Was it the original Ipoh Yat Yat Seng famous for their curry mee? If so, which family member was opening here?

The excitement is purely because this type of Hainanese curry cooked without santan but with a multitude of spices is unique to Ipoh, and incredibly rare in the Klang Valley.

Malay Mail spoke to Datin Seri Denise Phuah, who is part of the eatery's management team, about the story behind this newly-opened eatery.

This place traces its lineage to 73-year-old Toh Kong Wu, better known as "Fei Lou Wu" (Fatty Wu), who started the curry mee stall at Yat Yat Seng back in 1986 with his brother, Toh Kong Lai.

Their curry mee was made after tasting many other versions. The Hainanese style curry that is cooked without any santan uses more than 20 spices to create a flavour bomb that you will keep drinking to the last drop.

Years later, Fei Lou Wu moved out from Yat Yat Seng and opened his own place nearby where the curry noodles are marketed under his name. His brother also opened his own stall in Ipoh Garden South.

Fei Lou Wu's son, Jeffery, who had been helping out at the original stall since he was nine years old, also ventured into the family business.

He opened his own place in Pasir Pinji with his wife Yenny Phuah who is Datin Seri Denise's sister.

Each family member has stamped their own style with slight differences on the curry mee. Fei Lou Wu's curry mee tends to be saltier while his brother's version is richer. Jeffery's style is the best of both worlds — a sort of amalgamation of his father's and uncle's versions.

For those visiting this outlet, you get their signature curry mee in two styles: soup or dry version.

The supreme version for RM33.90 will have the "works" where the curry mee is served with a bowl heaped with char siu, roast pork, poached chicken, prawns, cockles, pork skin, and chopped pieces of braised pig's head and ears.

This is served with short, plump bean sprouts from Ipoh. This portion will feed one generously as the side bowl is a heaped portion of meat.

If you prefer a smaller portion, you can opt for the Signature Curry Noodles for RM22.90.

The noodles are usually a choice of bee hoon or mee but you can also ask for hor fun too. They source their rice noodles direct from Ipoh.

The strong curry with your noodles is redolent with spices that make each spoonful flavourful. The dry version is an appetising combination of soy sauce with the thick curry sauce.

For the supreme version, your bowl of goodies is served with their signature chilli sauce. That sauce made with fried lard, garlic and chopped chillies is killer delicious.

Everything that spicy, appetising sauce touches becomes an umami bomb. Before you know it, that mountain of meat in that side bowl will be finished in a jiffy.

For clam lovers, there's also an option to add on curry cockles for RM14, to satisfy your cravings for the molluscs.

The menu also features Hainanese Chicken Rice, where the fragrant rice is cooked based on a family recipe. There's also a selection of roast meats like char siu and roast pork.

You can also get Ipoh Fresh Shrimp & Shredded Chicken Hor Fun (kai see hor fun), Ipoh-style Lam Mee and Ipoh Prawn Noodles.

What caught our attention was the unique Pickled Pork Belly Noodle (RM22.90). It's a special item crafted by Jeffery that uses ham choy sourced from Ipoh that is paired with smooth pieces of pork belly. The broth is incredibly appetising with the not-too-salty preserved vegetables.

You also have an assortment of side dishes like Nam Yu Fried Pork, Kung Fu Fresh Prawn Wantons or Hot & Sour Vegetables.

What we enjoyed was the Handmade Fish Ball (RM18). These wobbly, large fish balls made with saito fish by their supplier tasted homemade. The texture had the slightest bounce and its uneven shapes were a sign, these were hand made.

It is early days but there are already big plans to expand the brand to other areas within the Klang Valley so look out for the name, hopefully opening soon in your area.

Take note, operations are still at the testing stage for the eatery which opened yesterday as their soft launch is slated for May 7.

Restoran Yat Yat Seng, Lot 18 & 19, Ground Floor, Megah Rise Mall, 3, Jalan SS24/9, Taman Megah, Petaling Jaya. Open daily: 9am to 10pm (last call 9pm). Tel: 014-3313043. Facebook: www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100086025934070

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