KUALA LUMPUR, Nov 9 — The clock is ticking for many of the older generation hawkers. With old age and rising food costs, staying in business just doesn't make sense and many will be forced to retire.

Maybe that is why I kept "pursuing" Kiew Yee Teochew Fried Kuey Teow until I finally got to taste it one Saturday.

Recommended by a friend who is on a quest to create food memories of yesteryear for his son, the stall traces its legacy of serving up Teochew style fried kuey teow back to 1952.

It's run by Cher Poh Kiat who started learning the ropes of the business at the tender age of 11.

The stall was run by his father who joined hands with his uncle and Cher's sister. In a write up by Lim Kim Cherng for a Chinese publication, the stall's heyday was in the 1960s and 1970s where they fried noodles from morning to 11pm.

Customers would visit the place after watching football matches at the nearby Merdeka Stadium. Lim's article recalls a story on how popular the noodles were back in the old days, that they even won over the Hong Kong football team who came to Kuala Lumpur for a competition.

The football team not only ate the noodles but even packed it back to Hong Kong!

Cher preserves his father's legacy by following the old methods. This includes frying the lard in garlic paste without any soy sauce. Here, the noodles are fried using soy sauce and fish sauce. They also use a homemade peanut sesame sauce.

When I visited the stall, I had the opportunity to witness how he fries up each plate of noodles. You won't find black bits in your noodles as his well seasoned cast iron wok is pristine.

The wok emits smoke, infusing the noodles with that all-important wok hei or 'breath of wok'. You may be lucky to even see flames rising up the side of the wok as he furiously fries up the noodles.

The noodles are fried with cockles and sliced fish cake. The size of the cockles may have shrunk but I was amazed how they are whole and just barely cooked. This works so well; the bouncy soy slicked noodles get briny pops from the cockles. An egg is also added, fried on the side of the wok and mixed in with the noodles, bean sprouts and chives.

I don't usually order mixed noodles but I noticed many prefer this. After tasting that mix of thin noodles with the flat rice noodles, I understood why they prefer that combination as it's a bouncier bite.

Cher is truly a master of the wok to achieve flavour and wok hei with the fried kuey teow. Total satisfaction for RM7!

Currently the stall's operating hours are erratic as Cher is facing some shoulder issues. To avoid a wasted trip down town, just call Cher's wife to double check when they are open.

It's well worth your effort as this is definitely one unforgettable plate of fried kuey teow.

Kiew Yee Teo Chew Fried Kueh Teow, Tang City Food Court, 21-27, Jalan Hang Lekir, Kuala Lumpur. Open: 6.30am to 2pm. Days off not fixed. Tel:+6012-6657683.